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The Flakes area at Garrett Mountain contains several distinct features that make this a unique bouldering area in New Jersey. The area is just below a 50 foot tower at the top of the cliff line overlooking Paterson. Parking can be found either at the top of the cliff in a small parking lot just off of a loop road which runs through Garrett Mountain Reservation. Drive on the loop road and park at the parking lot across the street from the obvious tower. You can also park below the cliff in the parking lot for Lambert's Castle.
From the northbound Garden State Parkway, take exit 153B to Route 3 West. Stay on this road for about two miles or less. Just after going under a bridge exit right down an exit to a right turn on Valley Road. Take Valley for about 1.5 miles to Lambert's Castle. You've gone too far if you cross a highway and enter Paterson.
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This problem goes up the outside arete of Flake 1 which is located above the Inchworm Boulder. This Flake is about 25 feet tall and rests against the main cliff face directly below the Tower. This problem goes up holds on the arete or just inside of the outer edge of the arete for 25 feet until you can pull up onto a ledge. Some of the holds are insecure and one of the crux moves occurs when the boulderer is making a horizontal move above a sharp rock sticking up out of the ground. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NJ