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Garrett Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bridge of Sighs 
Garden State Parkway 
Grabbin a Dragon's Tail 
Inchworm Boulder, The 
Inchworm Traverse, The 
Left Side Arete 
Lord of the Flies 
Muddy Turtles 
Nick Arete 
Right Side Arete 
Right Side Flake 2 
Romano Alternate 
Romano's Arete 
Two Step Arete 
Unfinished problem 
Yin and Yang 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Lake View Trail
Great view of Deer Park Pond Near Hackettstown, New Jersey
White Trail
A mix of singletrack, doubletrack and old mining roads. Near Kenvil, New Jersey
Red Trail
Nice singletrack running through the heart of Six Mile Run. Near Kendall Park, New Jersey
Yellow Trail
Yellow Trail Near Mendham, New Jersey
Red Trail
Singletrack hugging the perimeter of the park. Near Mountain Lakes, New Jersey
Warthog
A mostly intermediate trail that runs the perimeter around the parking lot. Near West Milford, New Jersey
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Garrett Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.9005, -74.1729 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,675
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Hessler on Aug 24, 2012
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Top roping the walls just south of the tower. Thi...

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Description 

The Flakes area at Garrett Mountain contains several distinct features that make this a unique bouldering area in New Jersey. The area is just below a 50 foot tower at the top of the cliff line overlooking Paterson. Parking can be found either at the top of the cliff in a small parking lot just off of a loop road which runs through Garrett Mountain Reservation. Drive on the loop road and park at the parking lot across the street from the obvious tower. You can also park below the cliff in the parking lot for Lambert's Castle.

Getting There 

From the northbound Garden State Parkway, take exit 153B to Route 3 West. Stay on this road for about two miles or less. Just after going under a bridge exit right down an exit to a right turn on Valley Road. Take Valley for about 1.5 miles to Lambert's Castle. You've gone too far if you cross a highway and enter Paterson.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',9],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Garrett Mountain

Grabbin a Dragon's Tail V4-5 6B+  NJ : Garrett Mountain
Around the corner from Romano's Arete. This is the first completed problem on the underside of Flake 1. Left side of the arete is off limits. Begin standing with a right hand high in a small layback and a left hand in a side pull. Pull onto the problem by stepping first with the left and bringing the right into a heel hook in a good 6 inch corner. Pop up with the right to a higher layback in the same seam system. Lunge with the left to the top edge(very sharp). At this point the main cliff face ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NJ

Photos of Garrett Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Facing walls south of the tower.
BETA PHOTO: East Facing walls south of the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall Walls at the NW corner.
BETA PHOTO: Tall Walls at the NW corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Potentially a few lines around this crack on the N...
BETA PHOTO: Potentially a few lines around this crack on the N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northern side of the Flakes.  Right of the High Ro...
BETA PHOTO: Northern side of the Flakes. Right of the High Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barb Rock.  North side of the Flakes.  Left of Hig...
BETA PHOTO: Barb Rock. North side of the Flakes. Left of Hig...
Rock Climbing Photo: High Roller Boulder.  North Side of the Flakes.
BETA PHOTO: High Roller Boulder. North Side of the Flakes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall Walls at the NW Corner.  Splitter crack left....
Tall Walls at the NW Corner. Splitter crack left....
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall Walls at the NW Corner.  Splitter crack right...
BETA PHOTO: Tall Walls at the NW Corner. Splitter crack right...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Individual Boulder at the NE corner of the Flakes....
BETA PHOTO: Individual Boulder at the NE corner of the Flakes....
Rock Climbing Photo: Unclimbed East facing walls.  South of the Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Unclimbed East facing walls. South of the Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the main wall right below the tower.
BETA PHOTO: This is the main wall right below the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Caveman Boulder at the base of the walls.  Located...
BETA PHOTO: Caveman Boulder at the base of the walls. Located...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flake
BETA PHOTO: The Flake
Rock Climbing Photo: TR a few minutes south of the tower.
TR a few minutes south of the tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Western side (far side) of the Flakes area.  Not t...
BETA PHOTO: Western side (far side) of the Flakes area. Not t...

Comments on Garrett Mountain Add Comment
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By Alex W.
From: garfield
May 2, 2015
I climbed here for the first time last summer. The bouldering is not on individual boulders really but on a ring of short vertical rock (8-20 FT high).

It is a pretty cool feature and I look forward to driving up again when I return this August to NJ. I might take some more photos for this page. If anyone wants to join let me know.
By Alex W.
From: garfield
Jul 31, 2015
I've returned to GM a few times this summer and did some more recon with my microscender, especially at the walls south of the tower. I've included some pictures but that only tells half the story. There are more faces and they look great!

There are a lot of trees one can set a top rope to, and some boulders at the top. With a 50 ft static rope you'll have no problem climbing any portion of the wall.

As for conditions, the rock is solid where it looks solid and loose where it looks loose. On a rappel I kicked loose a torso sized rock and on my way up one climb I threw plenty of soft ball sized rocks down. So helmets are encouraged. But as I said, where it looks solid it totally is.

Overall the area has a lot of potential for great climbing. Tall walls. Varying features. It just needs more traffic than me to get cleaned up.

One more thing. BEWARE of poison ivy. It's at the top, it's at the bottom, it's even on some parts of the wall.

There are also walls at the south side of the reservation. Maybe only 2-3 routes worth. It is a lot blockier, I've been calling it the Ice Berg. It's on the outer rim trail, passed the abandoned swing set park.

If ever anyone is interested in checking GM out, just send me a message.
By cms829
From: NJ
Sep 23, 2015
FYI - Climbing isn't "legal" within the park. County Sheriffs will fine and potentially confiscate your gear if caught. If they're feeling frisky they may even drag you in and charge you for trespassing.

I grew up within a mile of the area and way back when put up a ton of routes, but that was a long time ago. Some of my favorite hard climbs are within the park. And they only got harder over time as key holds broke off. lol. The rock isn't very dense.

There' also a lot of other super fun bouldering if you hike/mtn bike around.

Poison ivy is HORRIBLE, and there is a lot of loose/weak rock. The potential for a good crag is there, but the politics and other aspects of the area will prevent it.

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