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White House Wall
Routes Sorted
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Behind the Times T 
Chemical Wire T 
Garfield Goes To Washington T 
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 
Grounds for Divorce T,S 
IHOP T 
Political Affair T 
Political Division T 
Political Prowness T 
Slant Crack T 
Smear Campaign T 
Susi's Garden T 
Tap and Die T,TR 
Utter Butter on a Rope T 
Wife Sentence T 
Unsorted Routes:

Garfield's Forgiven Affair 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Andy Busse & Britton Vidal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Andy Busse on May 6, 2009

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Description 

This is the vertical crack system that divides the main wall, climbers right of Garfield Goes to WA. Garfield's Forgiven Affair is a variation to Garfield Goes to WA. It offers amazing crack climbing, that is easily protected.

Location 

The route is a love affair with Garfied Goes to WA (see Garfield Goes to WA for location details). Take the first pitch of Garfield Direct to the first ledge and build an anchor. Take the vertical crack system located at the end of the ramp, on the main wall, climbers' right of the dihedral. Follow for approx 75' to the main ramp located at the end of the second pitch of Garfield Goes to WA, where you will find a set of anchors.

Protection 

.4-1.5" (#1 C3 - #1 C4), Set of Chocks.
1 Bolt, Anchors.
2 Rope Rappel or find a way to the rap anchors of Garfield Goes to WA.


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By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
May 6, 2009

Anchors at the end of the second pitch of Garfield Goes to Washington?
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
May 6, 2009

Andrew, good job for placing the anchors on top of pitch two.

To me it makes total sense to have three sets of fixed anchors on GGTW. Set one needs to be placed at the top of the direct start on the ledge of the 5.9- version. Set two at the top of the second pitch of GGTW (sounds like these already exist). Set three at the end of the third pitch of GGTW.

Climbers already move left from the first pitch to belay at the three bolt anchor on the second ledge. Removing these three bolts and moving that belay station down to the first ledge at the top of the direct start makes total sense to me. Removing the top set of anchors (which are difficult at best to locate for onsight climbers) and placing a third set of anchors at the end of the third pitch makes sense to me likewise.

In the end only one 60 meter rope would be required to rappel. The second pitch would climb directly up the corner as was originally climbed instead of veering left to the second ledge and three bolt anchor. I know the BH Climbers Coalition has this project on their hit list. I have already reconned the layout for this to happen.
By Andy Busse
Administrator
From: Rapid City, SD
May 8, 2009

Anchors are located at the edge of the ramp, not in the crack. They would serve as great rap anchors off the top of Garfield, but are not located to serve as a belay station for climbing Garfield.
By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 26, 2009

Checked them out yesterday...Nice placement with a good camouflage job.