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Garfield Goes To Washington 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Engle and Linda Schneider--1987 Ground Up
Page Views: 6,958
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Eric plugging away on Garfield.

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Description 

This climb is one of the classics at Rushmore. It is long and has varied climbing. Follow the trail east from the parking near Dire Spire. Look for a prominent dihedral that shoots up to a gigantic roof. This is the climb, although the route traverses and does not mess with the roof.

Pitch 1: Climb up a steep crack that widens near its top. Some plant life is encountered low. This long pitch is the crux, and ends at a ledge with fixed anchors. Also, a slanting crack (Slant Crack, diagonals up and right), reaches this point.

Pitch 2: Follow an easy (5.6) but loose dihedral (wide) to another ledge. This pitch is very short. Then a long traverse must be made to the right on this ledge. Either traverse this ledge now, or do a short intermediate pitch to avoid rope drag for the last pitch.

Pitch 3: Climb up runout face (5.6 - 5.7) to the top of the formation. This pitch is pretty runout, but then again, I had a small rack when I did it. Maybe some aliens would help? At any rate, take the easiest path possible for upward progress.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Larger pieces for the second pitch.


Photos of Garfield Goes To Washington Slideshow Add Photo
Second pitch. Taken by Aaron Helmers.
Second pitch. Taken by Aaron Helmers.
Beautiful pic of Dire Spire
Beautiful pic of Dire Spire
Pitch 1 of Garfield
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Garfield
Midway - first stage.
Midway - first stage.
Garfield Goes To Washington from the road.
Garfield Goes To Washington from the road.
Jay doing the crux of the first pitch all wrong.
Jay doing the crux of the first pitch all wrong.
Mark and I took eleven people up this route, five of whom knew how to climb.  This picture is on the top of the second pitch :)
Mark and I took eleven people up this route, five ...
First pitch of Garfield.
First pitch of Garfield.
love those wide chimneys
love those wide chimneys
View From the Top
View From the Top
Summit view of Garfield Goes To Washington
Summit view of Garfield Goes To Washington
Rick Phillips on the first picth of Garfield...takin the easy way.
Rick Phillips on the first picth of Garfield...tak...
Jay higher up on the first pitch.  The councilman on the belay.
Jay higher up on the first pitch. The councilman ...
two groups at 1st and 2nd belay station
BETA PHOTO: two groups at 1st and 2nd belay station
Kasi nearing the top of P1 on Garfield Goes to Washington. Really love this pic, gives you an idea of the positioning you are in climbing this route. Great route!
Kasi nearing the top of P1 on Garfield Goes to Was...

Comments on Garfield Goes To Washington Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 15, 2002

Garfield goes to Washington Difficulty: 5.8Protection: Medium to large stoppers, cams, or hexes.Description: Park on the left side of the road as driving down towards and before the road descends to the Monument. Walk up about 10 minutes to the base of the wall and follow it to the right. The first pitch is a crack system along a left facing corner. The crux is a slightly overhanging crack about 30 feet up. Good pro below the crack and in the crack can be placed. Two rappel pins to the left can be used for the first belay. The second pitch is easy. Go up on an easy and nice crack and traverse to the right on a shelf. Don't forget to place a pro before the traverse to keep the second safe. Setup the belay 10 feet before the end of the shelf using a horizontal crack. The last pitch goes up past 2 bolts and has fairly long run outs with relatively good holds. At the end of the face turn left again and setup belay on a ledge above the big overhang which was visible directly above the first belay. 2 rappel chains can be found descending using a short steep and narrow V with vegetation and traversing to the left (when facing the wall).
By Mark Berreth
From: Wenatchee, WA
Mar 9, 2003



This is THE route to do.
By Adam Haggerty
Feb 16, 2004

Definitely one of the funnest climbs in the hills. Surprisingly, no one has mentioned the rappel. The first rappel is an incredible hanging repel for the first sixty feet. It is awesome. A must do route.
By gekkela
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did the first pitch of this route twice but am intimidated by this so called runout third pitch. Is there a crack there or what? From the ground it looks like an unprotected face climb after a chimney. Also, where is the rappel at the top? Do you rappel down to the top of the first pitch and then to the ground? Can you walk off? Thanks!-Kolby Jardine
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Mar 23, 2004

Kolby -

I did this route back in '96 or so, so my memory is a bit shady. When I climbed pitch 3, it was a face with no bolts, but with a few options here and there for small pro in places. It was pretty runout, but I hear there has been 2 bolts added since then (?), which might take the teeth out of it a bit.

When I climbed it, I never found the rap, but it is supposed to be on top of that giant roof. It is a 2-rope rap to the top of pitch one, then one more 2-rope rap. Instead, I did a LONG walkoff. If you choose to do the walkoff, bring up your street shoes to save yourself some foot pain!

Peter Gram
By Mark Berreth
From: Wenatchee, WA
Mar 30, 2004

Kolby,The last pitch is a little run-out for the first 25-30 feet, but you can get a couple small pieces in that are sketchy but better than nothing. I usually just run it out until the first bolt. There are 3 or 4 bolts on the top. As long as you're a solid 5.7 climber you won't have any problems. It's an excellent climb, just nut up.
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
May 23, 2004

Above the 3-4 bolts on the 3rd pitch you'll find a desk-sized block with a grapefruit chunk on top. This block can be used to build an anchor, sling the grapefruit and use the small crack around the base. Or, go left from the block maybe 15 feet to a gully and you'll see some anchors below you. This is the rappel that drops over the roof and puts you at the anchors at the top of the first pitch.
By Ryan Minton
May 23, 2004

Kolby- the third pitch is very manageable. About 10 feet above the belay, there is a perfect slot for a #1 Camalot (or equivalent). Above that, move to the alcove with the large crystals in it, and look around to your right- there is a decent placement for a yellow alien in this spot. From here, it is only a few more moves to the first bolt, with an optional nut placement before the bolt. Remember, too, that the climbing up to this bolt is not hard by any measure- it's just that with the exposure and runout it seems intimidating. Don't let it stop you from doing the route- this pitch is not as bad as you think it will be. Once you reach the headwall, there are three bolts. Enjoy!
By Dakota Kid
From: Rochester Hills, MI
Aug 20, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first rappel is definitely exciting. Pretty much a straight 150' drop to the first belay ledge off of the roof. Give the tourists on the HTL a thrill watching you spider down.
By Roy Reichle
From: Saint Helena, NE
Jun 27, 2010

My climbing partner and I just did this route on June 23rd of 2010. It was my climbing partner's first multi-pitch and he had a great time on the route. It was my second time to do the route and each time was a blast.

I first did the route in the 90's, before the bolts were put in on the third pitch. Without the bolts the pitch was quite sporty, but very doable. I found a few placements on the way up that would take short falls, and I put screamers on them for good measure.

This time, the lower pitch was very wet after the previous night's thunderstorms, but we made it through without slips or mishap. The pro is all there and the crux is quite safe. The moves through the crux section are pretty sustained and can be a bit awkward, depending on your technique.

The second pitch is just a ton of fun, especially the exposed ledge system and hanging belay. My partner and I made it into a few people's photo albums as they gawked below us.

The third pitch was easier than I remembered it, probably because I knew about the added bolts! The upper pitch is coarse and climbing rubber sticks like glue. So, relax and enjoy the view.

When you're rapping off, it's a good idea to put the knot over the lip. Our rope became stuck and I ended up prussiking back up to get it loose. Overall, even with a stuck rope, this route is a highly recommended classic.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jul 21, 2012

Good route. P1 is the business and P2/P3 are cruisy. P3 protects fine to the bolts - I plugged 3 bomber cams. Just look closely - it's there. Also, P3 has maybe one 5.6/5.7 move and the rest is 5.5 or easier.

There are two routes on the right wall at the top of P1. Each has chains at the top. Does anyone know which routes they are and what they're rated? The one on the left felt 10ish but has a section that is difficult to protect. The one on the right is harder quite technical - maybe 11b?

With a 70m rope you can rap from the top with one rope using the anchors for the routes described above.
By Joe Brannan
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 5, 2012

Warning on the walk off, the back side of this wall is closed. Signs are posted everywhere reading 'Federally Closed Area.' Plan to rappel off the front.

Also, P3 makes this climb, don't miss it. Although its no harder than 5.6 the climbing is wonderful and has great position. As of July '12 there are 3 bolts to protect the top half of this pitch. The lower half of P3 is well protected as well (I used #2 C4, medium sized wire and red C3).
By Lspade
From: Chaska, MN
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was told to bring webbing to build an anchor at the top but I found two brand spanking new FIXE bolts/chains about 20 feet below the summit on a huge ledge. I belayed both of my seconds up to this spot and we did an easy, non-exposed, scramble to the summit unroped.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you wanna take the 5.6 Slant Crack to reach the first anchors, note that you start on the face and traverse left into the crack/flake and then go up and right. Don't start the Slant Crack where it actually starts... much harder than 5.6. Anyway you do Garfield is great though. Took a beginner up the Slant Crack today and it was very enjoyable, easy climbing on big flakes.
By Mark Orsag
May 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb. I think I might have given it four stars had there been better weather for it-- early June a few years back cold, windy as hell. Awesome top too with the wind-sculpted rock and the little pond and all...