Scanned photo of the view.
Several ice flows from WI3+ to WI5 multi-pitch climbs exist. Condition of ice flows dependent on weather. Sometimes very thin to nothing at all can exist on some of the longer flows. Be prepared for bitter coldness or worst rain sometimes.
Cross country skis and snow shoes are needed. Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find. Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls.
Easiest and longest way I always did by taking Lincoln woods Wilderness Trail for three miles to Franconia Brook Trail for five miles to 13 Falls Campground.
Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be another good way to do multiple visits. I would ski left following Franconia Brook away from 13 falls and camp near Franconia Brook for easy water access, a little ways passed where the trail goes across this brook, straight ahead is a large clearing.
Fires during winter are okay, I believe. This is a protected wilderness coded area in NH. That means leave no trace, use no ribbon trail markers on trees, no permanent anchors, including pitons and fixed webbing on a tree.
Browse More Classics in Garfield Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Garfield Crag:
WI5- Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet
The Big One
WI5 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Garfield Crag
The Big One
WI5 M2 NH
: *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing
: Garfield Crag
two starts right or left ramp of mixed climbing to belay under narrow curtain pillar. Climb pillar (WI4+) move right to gear placement, move left up runnel similar to Repentance second pitch and belay at notch (4+). Climb ramp left to ledge and escape off climb or do the crux wall of thin hard technical moves to the highest exit to this climb. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: Left line is Bilbo's Tunnel, middle is Leaving the...
|Comments on Garfield Crag
|By Adam Wilcox|
From: Candia, NH
Aug 13, 2009
You certainly get around.
Thanks for sharing, Brad. I might never go to a lot of these places but I enjoy reading about them.
|By bradley white|
From: Rumney, N.H.
Aug 14, 2009
You are welcome Adam.
I used mole skinned cross country skis with Tirol adjustable bindings that fit ice climbing boots on the Wilderness trail to Franconia Brook trail and then would camp close to the brook west uphill from 13 falls campground. I modified a weight lifter's belt with loop holes to drag two kid sleds behind me. These sleds were loaded with food, camping supplies and climbing gear. I had 10 days off between Christmas and New years day. I usually stayed six days out there. One day to approach and set up camp. One day to snowshoe up to the crag's base. Three or four days climbing and one day to break camp and ski back to the car. I went out there four years. The only person that ever joined me was Jim Shimberg. The rest of my climbing associates I believe, thought I was nuts.
I had some mishaps over the years, sleds careening off the trail snapping the drag lines, Spent one night with Jim at 30 below zero, had my camp destroyed in 1984 year by high wind spouts and rain. I had to build a fire inside what was left of my shelter to survive the night. Scratched my corneas by fire ash and after seeing the doctor had to wear patches on both eyes for a week. I loved it out there away from civilization except for a radio and sometimes Jim.
|By Mike Thompson|
From: Manchester NH
Aug 15, 2009
you are one burly dude bradley :)
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Dec 27, 2011
LOL. How many miles on the approach??
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Dec 27, 2011
if you are areal maniac-- come in over the top. So special