On the left side of the cliff are moderate face climbs near the central left highest section is a area shaped like the bow of a ship. Right side of this are inclining chimney grooves and ceilings. Approximately 300ft at highest left central side. most of the crag is less than 200ft. South east facing spur on Garfield Mt. one of the seldom visited granite crags there is. It is illegal to do any drilling in wilderness designated areas and no fixed pitons.
Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find. Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls. Easiest and longest way take Wilderness Trail to Franconia Brook Trail to 13 Falls Campground. Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be a good way to do multiple visits. I would ski into the area in the winter to ice climb and in 1987 I left gear out there over the winter near the cliff. That made climbing out there for me simpler. I just needed to camp. Don't light any fires outside of designated campgrounds because it's illegal to camp outside of designated camping areas.
The crux is immediately off the ground traversing 10ft left or west under the ceiling to enter an 80ft finger crack. Crack is sustained (5-8) with a (5-9) mantle finish onto a large platform ledge. There is a second pitch up a inside corner facing left on the right side or east from the platform ledge. 50ft+ finish to summit. A 4ft loose block in the corner prevented me from completing this route to the top. I was rope soloing. Some hang dogging was done during the lead. Did a follow up ascent w...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
WOW ! Someone else went in there! Back in 1965 I "spyed" this cliff from the Bonds and took a compass bearing. I called it the "SouthWest Shoulder of Mt Garfield". The next summer ( 1966) I convinced a couple of my school climbing buddies to march in. It took all day to get to a place to camp. On 4th of July weekend 1966 we established a basecamp on the stream that flows about 1/3 to 1/2 mile from the cliff. (A BEAUTIFUL Campsite!, I can still remember the flat camping and fine pool.) A compass bearing of 26 deg. ( Mag.) brought us to the face, where we climbed a 80 ft ( +/-) chimney to a ledge. The ledge was wide. ( 2-3 feet??) A beautiful crack led upwards for ..?? 75-80 ft? THIS I free climbed and aided (mixed) to the top. No one followed, that day in Boston the temp. set a record for the hottest July day on record, at least, that's my recollection. [Maybe it was only the hottest 4th of July on record, to that time.] Most of the (soft iron) pins are probably still in place. Looking at a "blow-Up" of the photo with routes marked, I am 99% sure the four "P's" (pitons, I assume) on the right end of the mid-height ledge are from that ascent. [I think this was done "pre-Wilderness-Act", or if it was a yr or so after, rules hadn't been written yet, or at least not publicized.) It was written up in Appalachia's CLIMBs section, probably in summer of 1967 edition.
Its so exciting for to see from Dave Custer route lines and read from Rob Hall his 1966 ascent. My first try at this ledge was alone in sneakers no rope. I went almost to the top and quit because of wet slimy rock. It was doable and no reverse after slime. It is an early 1940? ascent I repeated guessed because of pin on route found. It looked like that time zone but old pin rusting in wet rock can be from decades later. Its goes up left diagonally from the center area and very easy. I got to see the top where all the ice water comes from. A paradise slope of vegetated beauty in summer. Down climbed it. I heard that Andy Tuthill and Chris Ellms used to go here in the mid seventies via Garfield Trail and then cut across from trail down to Thirteen Falls to crag. Its third party information and I have been to ledge this way. The block of doom on the Bow that stopped my continuance is higher right in a v groove slot or corner. I don't see any line here yet and likely the block is still perched there ready to kill. I also didn't see a line to go up left, oops. Just as well and the brad's doom block, its a fine name for it. what's one loose block to another one anyway?