BETA PHOTO: anyone know anything about this cliff... i think i...
On the left side of the cliff are moderate face climbs near the central left highest section is a area shaped like the bow of a ship. Right side of this are inclining chimney grooves and ceilings. Approximately 300ft at highest left central side. most of the crag is less than 200ft. South east facing spur on Garfield Mt. one of the seldom visited granite crags there is. It is illegal to do any drilling in wilderness designated areas and no fixed pitons.
Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find. Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls. Easiest and longest way take Wilderness Trail to Franconia Brook Trail to 13 Falls Campground. Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be a good way to do multiple visits. I would ski into the area in the winter to ice climb and in 1987 I left gear out there over the winter near the cliff. That made climbing out there for me simpler. I just needed to camp. Don't light any fires outside of designated campgrounds because it's illegal to camp outside of designated camping areas.
The crux is immediately off the ground traversing 10ft left or west under the ceiling to enter an 80ft finger crack. Crack is sustained (5-8) with a (5-9) mantle finish onto a large platform ledge. There is a second pitch up a inside corner facing left on the right side or east from the platform ledge. 50ft+ finish to summit. A 4ft loose block in the corner prevented me from completing this route to the top. I was rope soloing. Some hang dogging was done during the lead. Did a follow up ascent w...[more]Browse More Classics in NH