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 ADVANCED
Watchtower Main
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beef Jerky T 
Benediction T 
Broken Serenity T,TR 
Confessional, The T,TR 
Crown of Thorns S 
Dark Rose S 
Dirge, The S 
Double Cross T 
Extreme Unction T,TR 
Feels like Nadine T 
Final Prayer Variation T 
Fire and Brimstone T 
Fishlips T 
Fortress T 
Garden of Eden T 
Hellfire Variation T 
Holy Grail T 
Hungry for Heaven S 
Inner Light TR 
Invocation S 
John Doe 2 T,TR 
Outer Darkness T 
Revelation, The S 
Rosary, The T 
Spirit Prison S 
Total X T,S 

Garden of Eden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 879
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Aug 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This climb is no paradise. A dirty and difficult start leads to easier climbing. I jumped off the start a few times before I figured out the move to get up. All placements are solid, just don't forget to oppose your first piece after the traverse. The top part is only 5.7, but is the most worthwhile part of the route. This would be a good start to the routes on the Watchtower proper, if you don't want to hike up.

Location 

Climb the crack in the arÍte left (East) of Extreme Unction to a ledge. Traverse towards the chimney and head up another crack towards the Watchtower. There is a sling with a ring at the top. I would recommend walking off or rappelling from the chains on a neighboring route.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, a blue TCU protects the traverse.


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By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2010

Couldn't find a sling with a ring on this. There was a bit of torn webbing; perhaps that is all that is left. I used the Extreme Unction anchors to rap.
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I followed and cleaned this today. My buddy had to set up a funky anchor using the huge chock stones up at the top. I ended up just doing a sketchy walk off. Never saw any real anchors up there. Okay route though. Tough start if you're not one for hand jams and a fun finish, but not much in the middle.