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 ADVANCED
Watchtower Main
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beef Jerky 
Benediction 
Broken Serenity 
Confessional, The 
Crown of Thorns 
Dark Rose 
Dirge, The 
Double Cross 
Extreme Unction 
Feels like Nadine 
Final Prayer Variation 
Fire and Brimstone 
Fishlips 
Fortress 
Garden of Eden 
Hellfire Variation 
Holy Grail 
Hungry for Heaven 
Inner Light 
Invocation 
John Doe 2 
Outer Darkness 
Revelation, The 
Rosary, The 
Spirit Prison 
Total X 

Garden of Eden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Aug 3, 2006
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Description 

This climb is no paradise. A dirty and difficult start leads to easier climbing. I jumped off the start a few times before I figured out the move to get up. All placements are solid, just don't forget to oppose your first piece after the traverse. The top part is only 5.7, but is the most worthwhile part of the route. This would be a good start to the routes on the Watchtower proper, if you don't want to hike up.


Location 

Climb the crack in the arÍte left (East) of Extreme Unction to a ledge. Traverse towards the chimney and head up another crack towards the Watchtower. There is a sling with a ring at the top. I would recommend walking off or rappelling from the chains on a neighboring route.


Protection 

Standard trad rack, a blue TCU protects the traverse.



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By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2010

Couldn't find a sling with a ring on this. There was a bit of torn webbing; perhaps that is all that is left. I used the Extreme Unction anchors to rap.