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Watchtower Main
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Beef Jerky 
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Confessional, The 
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Feels like Nadine 
Final Prayer Variation 
Fire and Brimstone 
Garden of Eden 
Hellfire Variation 
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Garden of Eden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Aug 3, 2006
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This climb is no paradise. A dirty and difficult start leads to easier climbing. I jumped off the start a few times before I figured out the move to get up. All placements are solid, just don't forget to oppose your first piece after the traverse. The top part is only 5.7, but is the most worthwhile part of the route. This would be a good start to the routes on the Watchtower proper, if you don't want to hike up.


Climb the crack in the arÍte left (East) of Extreme Unction to a ledge. Traverse towards the chimney and head up another crack towards the Watchtower. There is a sling with a ring at the top. I would recommend walking off or rappelling from the chains on a neighboring route.


Standard trad rack, a blue TCU protects the traverse.

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By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2010

Couldn't find a sling with a ring on this. There was a bit of torn webbing; perhaps that is all that is left. I used the Extreme Unction anchors to rap.