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The Garden
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Ear, The 
Garden Groove T,S 
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Garden Groove 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FTR: Matt ?? FA: Tyler Adams 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 965
Submitted By: corvegas on Jul 20, 2006

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Description 

One of the only ropped climbs at the garden.


Location 

This route is located on the south side of the giant main boulder in the Garden. Climb the obvious scrubbed crack to a bulge, and bolt, clip the bolt surmount the bulge and move to anchors.


Protection 

1 bolt + Anchors, Optional gear to .75 (Blue Alien and Green/Yellow Hybrid Alien protect the first part) or a crash pad.



Comments on Garden Groove Add Comment
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By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Aug 22, 2006

Any one else done this with all the traffic there now, and how clean it is it seems like someone else may have led it?

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 23, 2006

I'm not aware of anyone else getting on it. Everyone always laughs when I suggest bringing anything but crashpads to the Garden. ;)

What's the word on other roped climbs down there? The first time I was there I saw a bunch of people with a couple of Hiltis and plenty of rigging gear, obviously out to equip some routes. Anything been cleaned off on the little cliffes just up the road?

By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Sep 5, 2006

Peter-

Some people added some useless top rope anchors on problems that had been done with out them. I imagine this is what you saw, those bolts have since been chopped. On this route Matt ???? had added TR anchors years ago but, never did anything with it as it was too dirty. 2 years ago we started cleaning it and cleaned the hell out of it, I decided to add a bolt to the upper unprotectable part, I tryed to protect with beaks but they where tipped out and ripped. This climb is very worthy of useing a rope a fall from above would result in many broken bones. Give it a shot next time your out there and sample something diffrent at the garden. The cliffs back an behind have had some stuff started on it theres a couple of bolts scatterd about and some ropes that have been hanging far on the west end, on the east end there is an Aid climb that was never fineshed that would prolly go free at 11 something. Further down the road just past the damn there is a crag with a couple of TR and sport climbs, right on the left side of the road. Past that on the left side of the road as well there is a small pillar with a couple of routes up it, great veiws to be had. Enjoy!

By Shapp
Oct 27, 2009

I am 99.9% sure that the first ascent on lead was done by Matt Pike around 1994 or so, possibly with Paul Baraza. I am sure there was no lead bolt then, although I think they might have put one on top. There was a bolt on top when I climbed it. I also lead this route in about 1996 and I know others did before me. The FA by Tyler in 2005 as noted above is incorrect. I would wager that many of the supposed FAs in the 2000s were actually not FAs at all. There was quite a bit going on there in the early 1990s. After sitting for a while it is surprising how much moss can accumulate and the boulders reclaimed to an "unclimbed" state.

By Joe Crawford
Oct 11, 2010

The bolts were added in '08 by a friend of mine. They are useless and should be chopped if they haven't. I haven't a clue why he bolted it, and would hope the precedent is not followed.