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The Drilling Fields
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Drilling Fields, The S 
Garden Gnome T 
Hired Gun S 
Pigs on a Wing S 

Garden Gnome 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andrew Holcomb, Al Provorse '12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: ARussell on Jul 9, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Garden Gnome follows the crack system above and le...


This very fun and full-value 5.8 trad route climbs directly above the belay bolt for Hired Gun. Establish on the ledge above the belay, stem left to reach the obvious handcrack up and left of the belayer, not the wider crack directly above the belay. At 40', step right to a thin crack then immediately right again to another obvious handcrack. Above, continue up the unique flake feature and bail right to a slabby face instead of grabbing the sketchy horn below the roof. Follow a thin crack to the anchors of Hired Gun.


This route begins at the belay bolt for Hired Gun, to the far right of the huge belay ledge under the main wall of the Drilling Fields.


A few stoppers and cams from micro to #3 C4. Doubles in the medium to #3 sizes. Route protects very well and some runners will ease the rope drag.

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By ARussell
Jul 9, 2012

This was a very natural line noticed while we were on Hired Gun. The line obviously hadn't been climbed recently but I would be surprised if it has never been done before, it's too perfect. We cleaned some dirt and lichen from the handcracks and they are pretty good to go now. Anyone been on this?

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