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BETA PHOTO: Garden Gnome follows the crack system above and le...
This very fun and full-value 5.8 trad route climbs directly above the belay bolt for Hired Gun. Establish on the ledge above the belay, stem left to reach the obvious handcrack up and left of the belayer, not the wider crack directly above the belay. At 40', step right to a thin crack then immediately right again to another obvious handcrack. Above, continue up the unique flake feature and bail right to a slabby face instead of grabbing the sketchy horn below the roof. Follow a thin crack to the anchors of Hired Gun.
This route begins at the belay bolt for Hired Gun, to the far right of the huge belay ledge under the main wall of the Drilling Fields.
A few stoppers and cams from micro to #3 C4. Doubles in the medium to #3 sizes. Route protects very well and some runners will ease the rope drag.
Jul 9, 2012
This was a very natural line noticed while we were on Hired Gun. The line obviously hadn't been climbed recently but I would be surprised if it has never been done before, it's too perfect. We cleaned some dirt and lichen from the handcracks and they are pretty good to go now. Anyone been on this?
From: Small Lake, UT
5 days ago
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fun route with a very high grit factor and, as mentioned by the OP, quite full value for 5.8. I'd recommend embracing the lichen (which came back with a vengeance after the 2012 scrubbing) and taping (or paying a blood tribute to the crack). Getting into the first hand crack is quite committing with small gear at your feet and some exposed stemming before getting a good piece in. I thought it was supper heady on the OS. The next 2 cracks gobble good gear but things get thinner and trickier up high. I placed more small stuff than hand sized pieces as the cracks down low are very secure but the patina padding up high is quite committing.