Garden Angel 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Charles Cole, Kelly Penix and Troy Mayr, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 6, 2002 |
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Nathan Fitzhugh the last bolt is where the lower p...
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Description This climbs the left arete of the leftmost rock as seen from the parking area and it lies 20' left of an obvious crack (Lazy Day).
Three bolts and balance take one up this fun little route which is a good quick hit if in the vicinity.
From the top it is possible to rap from anchors located above and to the right of this climb (recommended) or one can walk off down left(climber's).
Protection 3 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors. Bolted anchor/rap (3/8") off to the right atop Cactus Flower.
Garden Angel from the bottom.
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about to TR the crux with the first bolt clipped
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Fun route.
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Nathan Fitzhugh making a crucial and tough placeme...
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Nathan Fitzhugh now with some pro in.
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Nathan Fitzhugh not all that easy getting to the f...
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Nathan Fitzhugh ahh! the first bolt.
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Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascu...
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Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascu...
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Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascu...
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BETA PHOTO: Garden Angel (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 21, 2002
| A few comments:
1) Fun and balancy with well-placed bolts! There are at least two ways to start - up a crack on the left (easier), or on the right past on steep terrain and some good jugs (harder). Consider a crash pad/spotter if taking the righthand start.
2) The climbing eases up substantially after the 3rd bolt, but is runout to the top.
3) There is a nice incut "flake" to belay off, which can be backed up with a yellow TCU.
4) Rap as for Lazy Day and Cactus Flower with a single rope. |
By namascar
Feb 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| Fun route, with a very conveniently placed first bolt. It is clipped from the side so that the crux move is well protected. There is super fun high step move shortly after.Great route for could winter days where anything else can be chili. |
By Bo Johnston
Feb 6, 2005
| I remember placing a cam in the crack system to the left before stepping out to make the first clip. A little insurance policy with drop you'd be looking at otherwise. After I made the clip, I pulled the cam. I thought the route was hard for a 10a. |
By MAR
Dec 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| I found clipping the first bolt difficult as I had to make the move around the bulge before the bolt could be clipped (i'm 5.5). Also...as of 11/29/10, all bolts are spinners. |
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