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South Horror Rock
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Cactus Flower T 
Dog Day Afternoon T 
Father Ocean TR 
Flash Gordon T 
Garden Angel T 
Labor Day T 
Lazy Day T 
My Senior Project T 
Old Guys Gone Nuts, Gone to the Cops TR 
Perhaps T 
Pull My Finger, Barbara T 
This is Only a Test T 

Garden Angel 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Kelly Penix and Troy Mayr, 1988
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Nathan Fitzhugh ahh! the first bolt.

Description 

This climbs the left arete of the leftmost rock as seen from the parking area and it lies 20' left of an obvious crack (Lazy Day).

Three bolts and balance take one up this fun little route which is a good quick hit if in the vicinity.

From the top it is possible to rap from anchors located above and to the right of this climb (recommended) or one can walk off down left(climber's).

Protection 

3 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors. Bolted anchor/rap (3/8") off to the right atop Cactus Flower.


Photos of Garden Angel Slideshow Add Photo
Garden Angel from the bottom.
Garden Angel from the bottom.
Nathan Fitzhugh the last bolt is where the lower part of the arch overlaps the upper part. Easier climbing but a tad run out. Fun climb.
Nathan Fitzhugh the last bolt is where the lower p...
about to TR the crux with the first bolt clipped
about to TR the crux with the first bolt clipped
Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascurain
Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascu...
Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascurain
Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascu...
Nathan Fitzhugh not all that easy getting to the first bolt but crank'n it out.
Nathan Fitzhugh not all that easy getting to the f...
Fun route.
Fun route.
Nathan Fitzhugh making a crucial and tough placement to protect getting to the first bolt.
Nathan Fitzhugh making a crucial and tough placeme...
Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascurain
Bryan Ferris on Garden Angel. Photo - Joseph Lascu...
Nathan Fitzhugh now with some pro in.
Nathan Fitzhugh now with some pro in.
Garden Angel (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Garden Angel (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Garden Angel Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 21, 2002

A few comments:

1) Fun and balancy with well-placed bolts! There are at least two ways to start - up a crack on the left (easier), or on the right past on steep terrain and some good jugs (harder). Consider a crash pad/spotter if taking the righthand start.

2) The climbing eases up substantially after the 3rd bolt, but is runout to the top.

3) There is a nice incut "flake" to belay off, which can be backed up with a yellow TCU.

4) Rap as for Lazy Day and Cactus Flower with a single rope.
By namascar
Feb 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, with a very conveniently placed first bolt. It is clipped from the side so that the crux move is well protected. There is super fun high step move shortly after.Great route for could winter days where anything else can be chili.
By Bo Johnston
Feb 6, 2005

I remember placing a cam in the crack system to the left before stepping out to make the first clip. A little insurance policy with drop you'd be looking at otherwise. After I made the clip, I pulled the cam. I thought the route was hard for a 10a.
By MAR
Dec 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found clipping the first bolt difficult as I had to make the move around the bulge before the bolt could be clipped (i'm 5.5). Also...as of 11/29/10, all bolts are spinners.