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Garbonzo Bean 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Graf, Bob Watts, Phil Martineau, 1973
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,716
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Aug 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The step across for some is harder than others

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  • Description 

    This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.

    Location 

    N. face of Toms Thumb Obvious upper offwidth.

    Protection 

    medium to large cams up to 4 camalot.


    Photos of Garbonzo Bean Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...
    Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
    BETA PHOTO: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Garbanzo Bean, photo by Peter.
    Starting up Garbanzo Bean, photo by Peter.

    Comments on Garbonzo Bean Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By lou
    Feb 12, 2008

    Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse.
    By Scott Z
    From: Highlands Ranch, CO
    Feb 8, 2009

    lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5.
    By roman d
    From: Pasadena, CA
    Jan 10, 2010

    Solid physical climb. Physical crux right off the deck, mental crux is the smell on the traverse. Fun climb to lead on hexes.
    By arjunmh
    From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
    Feb 19, 2012

    Did this one again after a few years on Hanna's bidding. Still a physical climb with a hard start and the mental crux of the traverse is very real. If you don't like runout bring wide gear for the top. I didn't and was about 30 ft above my last piece before feeling secure.
    By Tradoholic
    Sep 25, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock.

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