Gannett Peak, South East Couloir  3rd AI2 Steep Snow

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Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine, 600 feet, Grade II Consensus:  3rd AI2 [details] FA:  Unknown. Season:  I climbed it on September 10th and it was in excellent condition. Submitted By:  PeterSLenz on Sep 12, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Gannett Peak. SE Couloir on left. Gooseneck Pinnac...

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Gannet Peak S.E. Couloir 

This route is an excellent alternative to the Gooseneck Gully route, particularly if the Gooseneck bergschrund's snow bridge has melted out. It may be a bit faster than the Gooseneck route, and obviates the need to ascend chossy rock on the lower Gooseneck ridge. The route is not described in Joe Kelsey's guidebook, but the couloir is easily seen from Bonney Pass.
The route requires a long approach from Elkhart Park or Trail Ranch. Most parties will take 2 days each way for the approach, i.e. 5 days round trip. (Gannet has now been climbed in 12 hours car-to car!) From Titcomb Basin the elevation gain for the climb and the return trip is 5800 feet. This includes the 1400 foot re-ascent to Bonney Pass on the return to Titcomb.
The approach hike is long, but beautiful.The climb involves travel over a relatively safe potion of the Dinwoody Glacier. Unlike the Gooseneck route, this one does require that you negotiate an area of densely packed crevasses. Some of them are deep. The couloir is about 45 degrees in steepness, and gains 600-800 feet of altitude, from the Dinwoody Glacier's N.W. arm to the summit ridge of Gannett. An uncontrolled fall down the couloir would probably be fatal, and there is some potential for rockfall danger.
I descended the S.E. Couloir, and retraced my steps through the crevasses. If you (unlike me) are smart enough to bring a rope, you can descend the Gooseneck gully, and rappel over the bergschrund, instead of descending the S.E. Couloir.
The difficulty of this route will depend greatly on snow conditions. I encountered a surface of corn snow, bonded nicely to an icy/frozen layer underneath, which took my crampons well.

Update 7/6/12: This route was skied in Spring 2012. You can find a nice write-up with some excellent photos at 14'ers.com. Well done, folks! PL

Location 

It is easily seen from Bonney Pass, and is the obvious snow couloir on the East aspect of Gannett. Approach from Bonney Pass as for Gooseneck route, but instead of crossing to the Gooseneck Glacier, you will ascend the N.W. arm of the Dinwoody Glacier. Ascend the couloir, then the summit ridge. Descend the way you came, or down the Gooseneck Gully.

Protection 

I brought two short ice tools, and crampons. A rope would make the glacier travel safer, and would allow for rappels on the descent.
No need for rock gear, unless you wish to belay from the walls of the couloir. This would slow your progress and expose you to more rockfall danger.

Photos of Gannett Peak, South East Couloir Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: SE Couloir	BETA PHOTO: Looking down the gully	BETA PHOTO: Wide angle view (from summit ridge) of climber sty...
BETA PHOTO: Telephoto view from (summit ridge) of climber sty...	Looking down the SE Couloir on the descent. "Look...	Moulin and Waterfall on the Dinwoody Glacier.
Mark & Jeremy on South East Couloir, August 2010