Gangway 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Peter Croft |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | March - October |
| Submitted By: | Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 7, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Gangway (5.12a or 5.11A A0)
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Description Gangway is a new route on the buttress established by Peter Croft with some help from Marty Lewis. I haven't climbed the route but since Marty e-mailed me this beta I thought I would share it with every one. The first pitch is, according to Marty, the best start option for Ghostrider. 4 new bolts and a little bit of gear. Wandering face on good rock to a ledge with a belay. Not shown on the topo is the fourth pitch, which has bolts and gear to a two bolt anchor.
- Also goes at 5.11a AO if not up to freeing the 2nd pitch.
Location To the right of Satoris.
Protection Draws, standard rack
By Vic Lawson From: Bishop, CA Jun 22, 2009
| goes at .12a (semi-sandbagged in my opinion, i feel like a small foothold might have broken?) If you look on the drawn topo you can see an arcing crack that ends at a two bolt anchor (the next route to the right of Ghostrider.) It now has bolts that extend the route up the slab to an anchor. This is a good option to start either Gangway or Ghostrider. Goes at .10b. |
By Vic Lawson From: Bishop, CA Jun 22, 2009
| oh yea, forgot to add that Gangway is the sicky sickness. I did it twice in two weeks and my partner kept wanting to be lowered from the belay above the corner to do TR laps on it! |
By Darrell Hensel Jun 24, 2009
| I believe the curving crack mentioned (as a start to either Ghostrider or Gangway) is Tanager. Previously it ended at the double bolts (as drawn), but now goes to the ledge. |
By Ryan Curry Dec 1, 2011
| The rock quality on the first pitch is quite bad. Traversing on friable friction make it thought-provoking for both leader and follower. My partner and I both broke holds and thought the pitch was harder than the given 5.9 rating. Although I haven't climbed it, the Tanager start seems like a better start to this route. |
By jfailing From: Lone Pine, CA May 14, 2012 rating: 5.11a PG13
| This route was incredible! Did it at 11a-A0 by aiding the bolt-ladder - the 12 option looked ridiculously hard... We didn't do the fourth pitch. First two pitches are alright - "Portal 5.9" seems accurate for the first pitch, and the second is easy if you aid the bolt ladder. The third is the money pitch. Make sure to conserve those #1's for the top! Also important to note - there are only two bolts at the beginning of the third pitch. Rapped with a 70m and a 60m down Trivial Pursuit from the top of the 3rd - someone had done the same as there were carabiners at each anchor. |
By J Smith Aug 26, 2012
| Awesome route but definitely start on Tanager, the first pitch is junk - to many rope drag inducing turns on friable rock. Second pitch felt mostly 5.10 except at the second to last bolt which we aided - you could aid the whole thing and make it much easier. Third pitch is why you do this route, a full 60m of stellar climbing. The crack mostly takes BD #2 and larger, I would recommend extra pieces in the #3 and #4 range and 1 x #5 (new sizes). Never felt 5.11a to me, in fact it didn't feel much harder if any than the 10c dihedral on No Country for Old Men. |
By El scorpion Oct 29, 2012
| You can rap from the top of Gangway P3 with 1 70 or 80 M- do a short rap left (looking down) to Trivial pursuit chains then 2nd rap back right to a huge ledge with bushes- walk down this to P1 anchor of Gangway or all the way to Tanager anchor. Do Tanager to start this climb (.3-#1 cams) then walk up ledge to P1 anchor of Gangway. Leave everything smaller than a .75 cam at this belay. #1, #2, #3, #4 for Gangway - save 1 of each for the top after the wide section. I don't think big cams would work/ you don't need them. Nothing smaller than .75 fits the 3rd pitch Great route |
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