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Gangland 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 1,835
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Setting up for the crux crimping. July 2014.

Description 

Start up steep rock with jugs, pulling a few big moves off of underclings. Once on the face the holds shrink with the angle, and a few sequency moves appear. Snag a mediocre rest, and pull the crux thin face moves, to easier ground up to the anchors.

There seem to be many extensions to this route, Apparently if you get to the upper anchors on Loose Cannon it is 12c, and if you make it to the very top it is considered 12d. Although from the obvious anchors for Gangland, this didn't seem real obvious, looks like you would break right before clipping the Gangland anchors to get to the anchors on Loose Cannon.

Sometimes called Excalibur, but apparently Gangland was the original name.

Location 

In the center of the wall, Between Against Nature and Loose Cannon.

Protection 

7 bolts to first anchor; 8 bolts if going to the Loose Cannon anchor; several (5)? more if continuing up to the very top of the cliff.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 25, 2010

To get to the Loose Cannon anchors, you would clip a bolts about 4 feet to the right of the last bolt on gangland and then the last bolt on Loose Cannon. Depending on how you do the traverse makes the whole route feel different, you can traverse at the level of the connecting bolt or with the connecting bolt down by your feet when you are in the underclings that you could clip the Gangland anchors from which would allow a great rest just before taking on the final crux of Loose Cannon.

  • NOTE: I'm not saying one way is OK and the other is not, just that they are different and I have no opinion on the grade of either, weather one gets the extra letter and the other not, whatever. I do however think that this extension makes Gangland a better route, I really enjoy the additional moves.

The roof extension off of Loose Cannon has good rock but kind of a jacked finish. There is also a roof extension to Gangland that goes out above it's anchor that has apparently not been done yet. Though this may be as much because of the rock as difficulty.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 29, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A key hold was recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder for those who previously used the more reachy but less crimpy "left beta" for this section (though the FA always recommended the sequence of small edges directly in line with the bolt at this section anyway).

Other beta:
This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to stick-clip b2 if you don't feel confident up to that point.

The 1st crux clip (b4) is considerably easier if a draw (long is better) is already hanging.

The extension to the Loose Cannon anchor is definitely worth doing (with this finish, best 12 at the Dungeon?). However, people don't do it as often because it is annoying to clean draws while lowering from there. It's also a little spooky the first time or if it's hard for you: if you fall after you get established in the undercling finish, it's a pretty big ride and people have occasionally gotten banged up a little from it.