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 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorbine Junior TR 
Blocks Direct, The T 
Blocks, The T,TR 
Bridging the Gap S 
Buckwheat S 
Caterpillar T,S 
Cave Crack T,TR 
Chicken fart T 
Chicken Heart T 
Cornered TR 
Crack of Dust T 
Empathy S 
Escapade S,TR 
Exit Stage Left T,TR 
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 
False Mission Gorge Traverse.  
Fingerrip T 
Gallwas Crack T 
General Dynamics T,S 
Handyman  T 
Hangman's Climb S,TR 
Intrinsic Value TR 
Knob Job TR 
Knob Job Bypass  T,TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Left Overture TR 
Lilley's Delight T 
Mariah T,TR 
Master of Defeet S 
Mickey Finn S 
Misbegotten 
Mission Gorge Traverse T 
Never Intended S 
Nutcracker T 
Obverse from the Gap S 
Owl, The T 
Prime Directive T,S 
Quack of Ducks T 
Quantum Leap S 
Rectum Roof T 
Rock On T,S 
Rock On Right S 
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 
Suzie's Wild Ride S 
Sympathy T 
Thumb Aid Climb, The 
Thumb, The S 
Trapeze T 
Unnatural Act TR 
Waiting for Bruce S 
Wasp, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Gallwas Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jerry Gallwas
Page Views: 2,183
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Oscar Olea on Gallwas Crack which he has ruthlessl...
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Description 

Left facing dihedral on the main wall. Thin fingers start (can be avoided to right) leads to a classic dihedral finger - hand crack. This crack leads up slippery stone to a chimney. The chimney adds a different element to top off a long (for The Gorge) section of jamming and stemming.


Location 

Main wall, starts up on a ledge near the top of the left climbers' loop trail. Starts on the right side of this ledge.


Protection 

Mostly smallish gear. Nuts or cams will do. Stuff in the grey alien range (.4 camalot?) is good. Biggest piece I remember using was #2 camalot. Even the chimney doesn't require wide gear.



Photos of Gallwas Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Gallwas Crack (right) and Nutcracker (left).  Both 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Gallwas Crack (right) and Nutcracker (left). Both...
Oscar Olea in the chimney topout of Gallwas Crack.  Photo taken on big 120 format B&W film.
Oscar Olea in the chimney topout of Gallwas Crack....
Comments on Gallwas Crack Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 21, 2009

Good training for The Vampire, Bat Crack +Direct Start. Just imagine it's right facing and a little steeper and more continous.

By AlexK
Jan 21, 2012

A committing, but fun route. The crux is about halfway before the ledge where the feet get slippy.

By wesnice
Aug 8, 2013

Perhaps this should get an extra star for being in the shade at noon in August. This climb is more interesting than it looks and boasts some slippery stemming and various forms of hand jamming. The best placements seem to be cams from BD Green on down. This climb pairs well with Mariah and the Nutcracker.