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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorbine Junior 
Blocks, The 
Bridging the Gap 
Buckwheat 
Caterpillar 
Cave Crack 
Chicken fart 
Chicken Heart 
Cornered 
Crack of Dust 
Empathy 
Escapade 
Exit Stage Left 
Exit Stage Right / The L Word 
Fingerrip 
Gallwas Crack 
General Dynamics 
Handyman  
Hangman's Climb 
Intrinsic Value 
Knob Job 
Laundry Chute 
Left Overture 
Lilley's Delight 
Mariah 
Master of Defeet 
Mickey Finn 
Misbegotten 
Mission Gorge Traverse 
Never Intended 
Nutcracker 
obverse from the gap 
Owl, The 
Prime Directive 
Quack of Ducks 
Quantum Leap 
Rectum Roof 
Rock On 
Rock On Right 
Suzie's Wild Ride 
Sympathy 
Thumb Aid Climb, The 
Thumb, The 
Trapeze 
Unnatural Act 
Waiting for Bruce 
Wasp, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Gallwas Crack 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
FA: Jerry Gallwas
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Gallwas Crack (right) and Nutcracker (left). Both...

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Description 

Left facing dihedral on the main wall. Thin fingers start (can be avoided to right) leads to a classic dihedral finger - hand crack. This crack leads up slippery stone to a chimney. The chimney adds a different element to top off a long (for The Gorge) section of jamming and stemming.


Location 

Main wall, starts up on a ledge near the top of the left climbers' loop trail. Starts on the right side of this ledge.


Protection 

Mostly smallish gear. Nuts or cams will do. Stuff in the grey alien range (.4 camalot?) is good. Biggest piece I remember using was #2 camalot. Even the chimney doesn't require wide gear.



Photos of Gallwas Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Oscar Olea on Gallwas Crack which he has ruthlessly wired.  I used a medium format camera loaded with B&W film as an experiment.

Oscar Olea on Gallwas Crack which he has ruthlessl...

Oscar Olea in the chimney topout of Gallwas Crack.  Photo taken on big 120 format B&W film.

Oscar Olea in the chimney topout of Gallwas Crack....


Comments on Gallwas Crack Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 21, 2009

Good training for The Vampire, Bat Crack +Direct Start. Just imagine it's right facing and a little steeper and more continous.

By AlexK
Jan 21, 2012

A committing, but fun route. The crux is about halfway before the ledge where the feet get slippy.