East facing basalt crag known for its short, moderate sport routes. This is often the place local aspiring sport climbers cut their teeth. Winter climbing is great here with the dark, east facing aspect receiving plenty of sun. Gallows is comprised of three areas: The Main Wall, The Pit and The Upper Tier with most of the routes located on the Main Wall. The routes are packed tightly and it can get quite crowded but the social scene is often friendly and fun.
The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.
From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Follow the good climber's trail down to the third shelf. This is Gallows Edge.
(This description was written by Matthias Graf--I have not climbed the route.)This is a steep face route with some shark-mouthed pockets. The 5.10a crux is moving beyond the 2nd bolt. Gain a ledge below the third bolt. A forth bolt protects the face to the left of the arete with friendly ledges to the anchors. There is an easier variation by climbing further left of the bolt line and a harder variation just right of the bolt line.It seems the 5.10a rating is a bit of a joke and poke at the overa...[more]Browse More Classics in NM
NOTE: Rust-colored steel (and some aluminum) carabiners were placed on the chains of all routes on the main wall of Gallows recently. PLEASE DON'T STEAL THESE! The carabiners make it safer and more convenient for everyone and extend the life of the chain anchors because the carabiners can be easily replaced while chains aren't as easy to replace.
just a suggestion. on fixed biners around here, sometimes they're held in place with a little baling wire, or a nylon zip tie. Helps keep them correctly oriented, and also lets people (who might be clueless as to local fixed gear ethics) know that they're supposed to be there.
Over the past year, in consultation with Jason Halladay and other FAs, I:
1) Placed an additional bolt on The Fire Swamp to protect against potential ground falls. It is the new 3rd bolt.
2) Placed steel biners (painted rust) at the top of The Fire Swamp. The biners are zip-tied to the chains to discourage removal.
3) Placed 22kn-rated chains, links, and steel biners (painted rust) at the top of ROUS. The biners are zip-tied to the chains to discourage removal.
4) Placed 22kn-rated chains and links (painted rust), and aluminum biners recycled from the tops of other GE routes at the top of Giant Killer. The biners are integrated with quick links and should be obvious that they are meant to stay there.