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Gallatin Canyon
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Ashes of Stone Buttress 
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Black Line Buttress 
Bleacher Buttress 
Canine Cliffs 
Cascade Creek 
Cube, The 
Fish Face 
Gallatin Tower 
Hantavirus Cave 
Hole In The Waltz, The 
Libido Formation 
Nu Ethix 
Pineapple Buttress 
Prow, The 
Red Cliff Campground 
Scorched Earth 
Skyline Buttress 
Sparerib Area 
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Waltz Formation, The 
Watchtower - First Tier, The 

Gallatin Canyon 


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Elevation: 5,000'
Lat, Long: 46.7097, -109.9731 Map
Page Views: 109,283. Good page? (4 likes)   
Administrators: grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The east side of Gallatin Canyon from the top of G...

Description 

I first spied the crags of Gallatin Canyon in spring of '02. I was driving up from Jackson, WY with my dad, planning on touring Montana State. After passing through the stretch with the climbing, I didn't even need to see the school- my decision was made! Not really, but I was pretty psyched.

Gallatin Canyon has two distinct areas. Driving S. from Bozeman, you'll first spot the limestone buttresses. There's great sport here (including a south facing winter area called Scorched Earth), as well as some mixed routes.

A couple more miles to the south, you'll spot the main, high-quality gneiss area. On your right, somewhat hidden, sits the Gallatin Tower, with tons of classic routes. The left side is where the majority of the climbing is. This area, with few exceptions, is trad. While you may have to wait in line for a classic route on a weekend in peak season, 9 times out of 10, you won't. High quality lines are everywhere.

Pay campgrounds are located in the canyon a couple miles south of the climbing. For free camping, throw down a tent on a number of USFS roads that exit the canyon (Squaw Creek, Portal Creek, etc...).


Getting There 

From Bozeman, head west for a few minutes to reach US 191. Head south on 191 for 20 or so minutes and you're there. For the Gallatin Tower and the Cube, park in the prominent pullout on the right. For all other areas, continue for another minute or two and cross a bridge. Immediately afterwards, park in a large dirt area next to the river.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gallatin Canyon:
Skyline Arete   5.6     Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Skyline Buttress
The Dagger   5.8     Trad, 25 feet   Gallatin Tower
Sparerib   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 225 feet   Sparerib Area
Ashes of Stone   5.9     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 190 feet   Ashes of Stone Buttress
Standard Route   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Gallatin Tower
Thing In Between   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Gallatin Tower
Pineapple Thunderpussy   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Pineapple Buttress
Diesel Driver   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Black Line Buttress
First Best   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Gallatin Tower
Tigger   5.10a/b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet   Gallatin Tower
Black Line   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Black Line Buttress
Lacy Panties   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Black Line Buttress
Bozeman Beautiful   5.10d PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   Ashes of Stone Buttress
Orange Crack   5.11     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Gallatin Tower
Soft in the Middle   5.11c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Gallatin Tower
Fistful of Steel   5.11c/d     Sport, 80 feet   Scorched Earth : Scorched Earth
Bowling for Buicks   5.12a     Sport, 80 feet   Gallatin Tower
Dogleg Arete   5.12-     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Canine Cliffs
The Fugitive   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Tango Tower
Der Fruh Lowe   5.13- R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Skyline Buttress
Browse More Classics in Gallatin Canyon

Featured Route For Gallatin Canyon
Tony doing the lunge on Lava Lunge

Lava Lunge V3  MT : Gallatin Canyon : ... : Lava Pit
Starting on two incut crimps in the horizontal rail in the middle of the upper boulder. Dyno straight up to the lip and mantle over. A very fun one move problem that may be a little intimidating at first. Walk off the back right side of the boulder from the mantle....[more]   Browse More Classics in MT


Photos of Gallatin Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Storm coming into the canyon view from the Tower

Storm coming into the canyon view from the Tower

Tick season in Gallatin Canyon- Ben Elias on Sparerib.

Tick season in Gallatin Canyon- Ben Elias on Spare...

The Throwback, high in the Gallatins...

The Throwback, high in the Gallatins...

Ashes of Stone

Ashes of Stone

Evening light on the east side

Evening light on the east side

Skyline Buttress

Skyline Buttress


Comments on Gallatin Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By NickinCO
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 24, 2012

Any info on free camping in the area?

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Aug 31, 2012

For good free camping, try Storm Castle Road (north of the climbing) or Portal Creek Road (south of the climbing). These options are currently inaccessible due to fires, however.