The Gallant Wall sits high on the ridge on the south of Ferguson Canyon. Neighboring cliffs (The Cove, Punk Rock) block the afternoon sun on the right side of the wall, but the morning would be better for shade seekers. Based on the approach trail, this is as secluded as it gets. Do everyone a favor and clear the brush off of the trail. It has really overgrown. We had a lot of wind during our visit, which helped when we were in the sun. The rock here is the typical quartz monzonite found at other Ferguson sites, although the large quartz crystals are missing. Because visitors are rare, the rock is gritty and exfoliates quite a bit. The routes here are all around 50 feet in length and range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12. All routes share a slung tree for an anchor. The belay ledge is not very comfortable, and a fall could be nasty, so build an anchor for the belayer and attach your gear so that you don't lose it down the approach gully.
Hike to the Goldenfingers Wall, past Arete Juliette and Garden of Gordon, and you will see a short cliff band to the southeast. A trail hugs the left side of this cliff band for a few hundred feet. The trail becomes a talus slope, and there is a spot where the brush has overgrown the trail. You will eventually reach a cove where the talus initiates (this is The Cove area). The Gallant Wall is visible behind a large pine tree to the east. Scramble around the pine tree and hike a steep dirt trail. This is an erosion nightmare and is severely overgrown. Plan on a 30-45 minute approach. A descent in the dark would be very bad, so bring a headlamp or flashlight.
Browse More Classics in Gallant Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gallant Wall:
Presiding Nymph 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Scandinavian Tuna 5.10b Sport, 60 feet
Featured Route For Gallant Wall
Run Aground 5.7 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Gallant Wall
Run Aground is a super-dirty chossfest that has a few redeeming hand jams toward the top. Start up a crack in a dihedral. Climb through the trees and milk the hand cracks above for all they're worth. Don't make the long, arduous hike for this climb alone. Oh, and try not to pull the loose rocks down onto your partner. How's that for a crux?...[more] Browse More Classics in UT