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The view back down the route from the final anchor...
A superb, moderate day climb on raw, alpine granite in a breathtaking alpine setting. rock is solid and the climbing varied. The final two pitches, up an awesome corner to the gain the ridge, offer continuously brilliant climbing from start to finish.
The route is around 300 meters, and has nine pitches.
The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass, traversing across beautiful alpine terrain to the base of the Sidelen glacier. The wall is at the back end of the glacier. The total approach time is around 1 hour and 45 minutes, with limited vertical.
A fixed rope near the base of the wall (in place to facilitate the start for various snow levels) provides a good means for orientation.
Descent is via abseilpiste, starting from the last anchor of the route.
The Sidelen hut is near the base of the glacier, and is a good base location for this and the many other routes in this area. There are a number of modest hotels/restaurants along the pass road as well.
Overall, the route is reasonably well equipped with bolts/pitons (including bolted anchors). A small assortment of complementary gear may come in handy. The first pitch, which at 5c is the most difficult of the route, is very well bolted.
Luxury abseil ledge. Ethics are relative...
Nearing the summit of Galenstock 3580m
Heading up the P8 dihedral
views from the top, towards the south
Views from the top of the route, westwards over th...
Jesse C scrambling up on easy terrain between the ...
The wall, taken from the base of the route.
By James Garrett
Aug 20, 2012
Though this is included in all of the more recent Plaisir guidebooks tot the area, due to global warming glacier recession, the first pitch (which before was under ice) is harder than 5.9. The route remains a classic for position, crack climbing, and outstanding views of the entire Berner Oberland. Rock quality similar to the best in the Winds.
By Dan Flynn
Oct 7, 2012
We started too far left, ended up doing a short but harder start pitch, then traversed right to the actual start. Look for the fixed rope!
Descent now also possible from the E face. Keep going from the finish up to the summit ridge, and look for a large cairn with flags on it. Look back, and you should see "50 m -->" painted in red, pointing to the abseilpiste. 4x 50 or 3x 60 gets you down to a snow field, easy scramble and sliding down to the glacier.
Also, from the Galengrat finish it is less than an hour to the summit of Galenstock. Easy terrain except for a short section of ~ 40° snow, well worth the effort to get the summit view.