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Galaxy Area

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Galaxy Area Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.26544, -111.61291 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,839
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 1)Endor Wall 2)Apollo Wall 3)Milky Way Wall 4)Miss...


Fantastic new area with LOTS of rock and still LOTS of new route potential. A good place to go if you want to climb a bunch of routes quickly. And still have plenty to come back for...
The rock is some of the best limestone in the canyon (granted, some is loose here and there. But what do you expect with limestone. We have worked really hard to make the routes clean and to build good trails and landings.
Please remember this area is brand new. Some dirt and loose rock is inevitable. Don't be afraid to brush the holds some yourself or fix the trail or landings if they need it. Lastly, remember to have fun! Many more routes are in the works...

Also I have to thank our un-official sponser Matt Monson who has sunk a lot of time and money in helping us with trails and route development. Thanks bud!

Getting There 

Hike up to the first footbridge and leave the trail as if you are going to the tap wall. But just as you leave the trail look left and spot a concrete gutter thing. Walk west on this and where it ends look right and you will see a tree on the left and a rock on the right. Go up between these and you are on the trail. The trail is still undergoing some work and therefore you might see some re-bar and/or tools here and there. PLEASE LEAVE ALONE!!! We are using all this to build the trail FOR YOU ALL. The trail will lead directly to the walls. There are trails and landings for ease of access throughout the entire ares. Please stay on these and don't wreck what has already been built.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

49 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Galaxy Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Galaxy Area:
Skywalker   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Sport, 1 pitch, 96'   Waterfall Wall
Not Bad for a Little Fuzz Ball   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 50'   Endor Wall
The Phantom Menace   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Tatooine
Gemini   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Milky Way Wall
Midichlorophobia   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches   Tatooine
Jawa Jam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Tatooine
Milky Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Milky Way Wall
Hyperspace   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   Tatooine
The Right Stuff   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Milky Way Wall
Leia's Leash   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Tatooine
Anti-Gravity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Milky Way Wall
Star Destroyer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Tatooine
Look Ma...No Heatshield!   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Milky Way Wall
Triumphal Arch   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Tatooine
Tick Tick Boom   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 3 pitches, 200'   Saturn V
Spaceballs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   Tatooine
Leia Needs A Lightsaber   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Tatooine
Space Invaders   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Milky Way Wall
Dark Matter   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   Milky Way Wall
The Force   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Tatooine
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Galaxy Area

Featured Route For Galaxy Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The sun in the eyes makes the crimps hard to see.

Dark Matter 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Milky Way Wall
Another fantastic line!Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up towards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps. The last real challenge (and probably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! When you hit this move you can't help but feel pretty darn good about yourself. The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry a...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Galaxy Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Lines= Trails and landings Yellow Lines= Route...
BETA PHOTO: Red Lines= Trails and landings Yellow Lines= Route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the new and improved trail. There is soon to...
BETA PHOTO: Shows the new and improved trail. There is soon to...
Rock Climbing Photo: The pic is a bit dark but this is the view of the ...
BETA PHOTO: The pic is a bit dark but this is the view of the ...

Comments on Galaxy Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2013
By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Jul 31, 2008
I have to thank Crisco for the grand tour of the Galaxy, it is one of the best climbing areas in Rock Canyon for sure. The hike up was way doable and the climbing was a BLAST! Rock was awesome, moves were great, just an awesome place to climb.
By aclimberdude
May 1, 2009
Hey thanks for all the hard work
By Aaron Child
May 12, 2009
I definitely enjoyed myself here yesterday. It would be a tragedy if the roofs on the Apollo wall didn't get bolted. They look so stellar (no pun intended). Seriously though, they need to have routes on them. More steep limestone would compliment this area very well.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Sep 5, 2009
I made the trip up to Galaxy area today. What an amazing area! Thanks to everyone who has put work in to the crag. You guys rock. This area definitely makes the top of my list in Rock Canyon.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 3, 2009
I got my first taste of Galaxy just recently. This is a must go-to scene. The trek is worth it plus its just great exercise. Real kudos to all the busy bees who made this area possible. Just working the trail must have been a labor of love. The routes are long and the view breath taking. Thanks to all your hard work, you have spoiled us climbers.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
May 30, 2010
What's the area past Tatooine - the one under the black waterfall? We were up there today and saw a lot of cool-looking routes, but I didn't want to get on anything that hadn't been sent yet. Perin, Crisco, Tristan - are those routes kosher to get on?

And thanks a lot - this is my favorite area in the canyon!
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
May 30, 2010
Waterfall Wall.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Everywhere and nowhere
May 30, 2010
I don't know much about those routes, except that some of them are super hard. I think they're mostly Darren's and Andy's, and I think I remember Darren telling me that Isaac Caldiero put up a 5.14 there?
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 30, 2010
Some of the lines have been sent, others have not. I too have heard about a few REALLY hard lines up there. DK told me about the lines, but as I had nothing to do with them, I did not post them. But I would like to get up there myself and work a few. Gotta get DK to get posting I guess.
I still remember how excited he was when we told him that the Galaxy trail would connect right to the Waterfall wall! I thought he might just hug me...scary thought.
By Darren Knezek
May 30, 2010
I only have the route called BFE, right smack dab in the middle of the water streak, .11c and the ridge route that separates Waterfall Wall and Tatooine called Skywalker
The rest are Andy's.
Left to Right
10c, 11b, BFE (11c), Project, 13a, 12b, 12a, Skywalker (5.2)
At least that's my recollection.
By Ignacio Delgado
From: Henderson Nv
Jun 1, 2010
Not worth the Hike
By Brian Taylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 4, 2010
This Area is amazing, Me and a friend hiked all the way through it today then ended by going up skywalker and free soloing a bunch of stuff up above the waterfall wall on that little buttress with all the trees at the base. It was AMAZING! brilliant work you guys have done up there. I really appreciate it. I'm looking forward to climbing the rest of it over the coming weeks!
By Tyson
From: Salt lake city, ut
May 9, 2011
This is my new favorite sport climbing crag on the Wasatch. Thanks to those who committed the resources to getting these routes in.

I'd really recommend a helmet up there. As the routes are new there is still some loose rock. I broke a hold or two and my belayer was glad for her helmet.

I'll definitely be back to this zone.
By Jeff Schmidt
Oct 17, 2013
Super fun area with a rad view of the valley except a massive rock about the size of a big backpack fell from the very top of Tatooine randomly and almost hit my buddy and I today. thought Id share this and advise people to bring dem helmets
By zoso
Oct 17, 2013
Am I the only one that realizes a helmet won't save yer noggin from a rock that size? Of course you should wear a helmet, and of course it may stack the odds slightly more in your favor, but it's funny how the comments of "wear a helmet" give the proverbial hall-pass for every chossy area with said inherent risk. Helmets are magic that way.

Glad the sucka missed you.

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