Fantastic new area with LOTS of rock and still LOTS of new route potential. A good place to go if you want to climb a bunch of routes quickly. And still have plenty to come back for... The rock is some of the best limestone in the canyon (granted, some is loose here and there. But what do you expect with limestone. We have worked really hard to make the routes clean and to build good trails and landings. Please remember this area is brand new. Some dirt and loose rock is inevitable. Don't be afraid to brush the holds some yourself or fix the trail or landings if they need it. Lastly, remember to have fun! Many more routes are in the works...
Also I have to thank our un-official sponser Matt Monson who has sunk a lot of time and money in helping us with trails and route development. Thanks bud!
Hike up to the first footbridge and leave the trail as if you are going to the tap wall. But just as you leave the trail look left and spot a concrete gutter thing. Walk west on this and where it ends look right and you will see a tree on the left and a rock on the right. Go up between these and you are on the trail. The trail is still undergoing some work and therefore you might see some re-bar and/or tools here and there. PLEASE LEAVE ALONE!!! We are using all this to build the trail FOR YOU ALL. The trail will lead directly to the walls. There are trails and landings for ease of access throughout the entire ares. Please stay on these and don't wreck what has already been built.
Get ready for some insane exposure! Three pretty short pitches (belays were added wherever there were stances or ledges) of solid climbing. Pitches one and two could probably be combined but linking two and three would result in hideous rope drag. Pitch 1: The tricky climbing starts right away and the whole pitch is pretty stiff. The holds are inobvious. You can get a knee bar in under the micro roof. Belay at a small ledge. 40' 5.10c, 5 bolts to chains.Pitch 2: Not quite as technically difficul...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
I have to thank Crisco for the grand tour of the Galaxy, it is one of the best climbing areas in Rock Canyon for sure. The hike up was way doable and the climbing was a BLAST! Rock was awesome, moves were great, just an awesome place to climb.
I definitely enjoyed myself here yesterday. It would be a tragedy if the roofs on the Apollo wall didn't get bolted. They look so stellar (no pun intended). Seriously though, they need to have routes on them. More steep limestone would compliment this area very well.
I got my first taste of Galaxy just recently. This is a must go-to scene. The trek is worth it plus its just great exercise. Real kudos to all the busy bees who made this area possible. Just working the trail must have been a labor of love. The routes are long and the view breath taking. Thanks to all your hard work, you have spoiled us climbers.
What's the area past Tatooine - the one under the black waterfall? We were up there today and saw a lot of cool-looking routes, but I didn't want to get on anything that hadn't been sent yet. Perin, Crisco, Tristan - are those routes kosher to get on?
And thanks a lot - this is my favorite area in the canyon!
I don't know much about those routes, except that some of them are super hard. I think they're mostly Darren's and Andy's, and I think I remember Darren telling me that Isaac Caldiero put up a 5.14 there?
Some of the lines have been sent, others have not. I too have heard about a few REALLY hard lines up there. DK told me about the lines, but as I had nothing to do with them, I did not post them. But I would like to get up there myself and work a few. Gotta get DK to get posting I guess. I still remember how excited he was when we told him that the Galaxy trail would connect right to the Waterfall wall! I thought he might just hug me...scary thought.
I only have the route called BFE, right smack dab in the middle of the water streak, .11c and the ridge route that separates Waterfall Wall and Tatooine called Skywalker The rest are Andy's. Left to Right 10c, 11b, BFE (11c), Project, 13a, 12b, 12a, Skywalker (5.2) At least that's my recollection.
This Area is amazing, Me and a friend hiked all the way through it today then ended by going up skywalker and free soloing a bunch of stuff up above the waterfall wall on that little buttress with all the trees at the base. It was AMAZING! brilliant work you guys have done up there. I really appreciate it. I'm looking forward to climbing the rest of it over the coming weeks!
Super fun area with a rad view of the valley except a massive rock about the size of a big backpack fell from the very top of Tatooine randomly and almost hit my buddy and I today. thought Id share this and advise people to bring dem helmets
Am I the only one that realizes a helmet won't save yer noggin from a rock that size? Of course you should wear a helmet, and of course it may stack the odds slightly more in your favor, but it's funny how the comments of "wear a helmet" give the proverbial hall-pass for every chossy area with said inherent risk. Helmets are magic that way.