Galactic Warrior  5.7

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  D. Hare, J. Schiavone, 1981 Submitted By:  Tonya Clement on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is an enticing crack along an arête left of The Knack, Fountain of Youth, Haywire, Superguide. Find this short climb at the top of the East Ridge of Fern Canyon. Hike the Fern Canyon trail til W of the East Ridge. This can be difficult to find: one party found themselves hiking between the East Ridge & Goose and utilized the gap between Fiddlehead & upper East Ridge. Observe potential wildlife closures.

Gain a ramp from near the top of the East Ridge. Wander down and belay at a tree. Use a #0.75 Camalot or #12 BD wire to protect the start. Layback up a crack to a bucket flake. You can move L to a rest to examine/test the tenuous-appearing flakes above. You must use these 2 flakes that to keep it at the 5.7 level. Commit R. A #2 Camalot helps make the next stretch feel more reasonable. This slightly bulging section makes you wonder about the 5.7 rating. Again, you must trust some tenuous-appearing flakes on the face R. Certainly, it has not been heavily traveled. Move up on face holds, laybacking, and high stepping that feels out-there for 5.7. Enjoy a rest at the small ledge above. Move L onto a fun double crack system, one for the feet and one for the hands and gain the top. Ok, 5.7 old world, 5.8 my world. Scramble off L, consider staying roped up. 0.9 stars. No lines.

Protection 

To a #4 Camalot is useful (#12 BD wire, #1, #2 Camalots, red Alien, #4 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2 wires) Wires & finger-sized cam for the anchor.