|Type:||Trad, Sport, 20 pitches, 4000', Grade V|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Lou Renner and Matt Brooks 10/95|
|Submitted By:||Jacek Czyz on Feb 25, 2010|
|Comments on Galactic Hitchhiker||Add Comment|
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By Jacek Czyz
From: Denver, Chicago, Lexington; PL
Feb 25, 2010
Me and Jacek Krawczyk climbed this route in about 20 pitches in 4 blocks with some simul climb easy section and stretching 60-meter rope few times. Take us less then 10 h at the 2003 fall. The leader climb OS above The Oasis.
Above The Ramp last quarter of the route we climb in 3-4 pitches as new variation. No bolts or iron. Small and medium cams & stopers. From the Ramp go up and easy traverse right under the slab to the belay tree on the right side of the slab. 2-nd pitch traverse left to shallow slaby chute/gully (crux 5.10/11a) using 2-3 incredible, hidden and bomber pockets/slots for pro every 15 or 20 feet and traverse few yards to left to belay ledge. Above we coiled our rope, move up class 2-3 huge slab. Last pitch of our var forces some final steep wall starting chimney/dihedral from right and traversing above overhang to left (5.9).
By Josh Higgins
Mar 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
|Roberto and I did the route last fall. It's a pretty amazing route, with better climbing than I expected. The first ascentionists did a great job, although it could use a bolt or two around pitches 18-20 if I remember right both for protection and to tell you which way the route goes. For a fun trip report at pullharder.org click HERE|