|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This is a great climb! Considering the moderate technical difficulty I give it 4 stars.
It's a little tedious to get up to the start but it's worth the trouble. The start ledge is a very nice place removed from the hussle and bussle of the main wall. The climbing is sustained and interesting - beautiful rock with classic holds! Lots of good jams too. I think if this route was located mid-wall it would be the most popular in the canyon.
Be sure you start on the right line - the start of Mr. Ridiculous is just left of this climb on a lower ledge.
|By Ken H|
From: Bell's Canyon, UT
Jun 6, 2012
If you are not solid at the grade you can take some gear about thin fingers to hands (maybe green, yellow, red aliens and green and red C4) but the bolts are all there. About the second to last bolt is hidden from view until you are close enough to clip it.
|By Jeff Witt|
Jun 11, 2012
Superfun climbing and well protected. Didn't find it as cruxy as Supergrinder, but perhaps more sustained with proper use of the crack. Excellent for the grade!
|By Darrell Hensel|
Sep 4, 2013
Gotta agree with Randy in Ridgecrest, if this route was more easily accessed it would be one of the most popular routes in the canyon. In a way though it is quite nice that it is where it is. At least this way one can enjoy one of the best routes on the wall and get away from the maddening Mustache crowds as well. (Plus, it's a good way to set up a TR on Slippery Slope if you're into TR'ing - just clip the GT anchor, one more bolt, and then the SS anchor.)