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 ADVANCED
Billboard Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bilbo 
Blow 
Crack Alley 
Driving Limitations 
Gait Of Power 
Gait of Power Traverse 
Knaug and Hyde 
Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) 
Reverend, The 
Sheet Bends 
Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack) 
Squat Rockets 
We Dive At Dawn 

Gait Of Power 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Stuemke and Dick Armstrong
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 8, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

Just to the right of We Dive At Dawn is a bolt on a very thin face. This marks the start of Gait of Power. Boulder moves through the bolt to a right-leaning crack. Take the crack to join up with Squat Rockets.


Protection 

One bolt, nuts, small to medium cams.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 11, 2013
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 15, 2003

Short! Too short!! Could it be shorter??? But a little bit fun noe the less.

By Brian Reynolds
Dec 16, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This climb is short but fun. I've had a good time hopping on it unroped, with just a boulder pad or two at the base for protection. You clear the crux by the time you're ten feet up, and then you can jump off. No way this deserves zero stars.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 16, 2003

Give it a million stars if you like!!! Whatever the case, climb it or not, like it or not, do as you damned well please! We had fun on it and thought it to be worthwhile, but too short. Call God and see if he/she can make it longer. Then I will add a few stars from heaven.

By Brian Reynolds
Dec 17, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Well, Locker, I guess we disagree. It's not personal. I swear.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 17, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Stupid little route...

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 20, 2003

Hey, like I said, a bit of fun and worth the shot. Certainly not a TOTAL BOMB as suggested by CM. I give it no stars and will never do it again though. All just opinions of course. None more important than the other. All in fun. I take nothing personal on this or any other site Brian. Thanks however and climb on!

By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I really like this quick route! Someone gave me a tip to get my feet up on the first diagonal horizontal however I could and the rest would be cake and it was. Fun

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

It wouldn't take an act of god to make this route longer. A bolt or two more continuing straight up the face would do the trick. I set up a TR so I could continue straight up for an equal length of additional and equally challenging face climbing.

Maybe I am a wus, but the bolt on this climb seems a little high to me. If uncomfortable about hurting your feet, bring a crash pad or stick clip. I was lucky to rap from somebody's rope above but you can walk off right. A bit tricky so look at it before you head up.

By Randy
Oct 9, 2006

Maybe not a bomb, but certainly no more than one star and barely worth doing.

By philistein
Mar 26, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I think it's fun as a V-1 boulder problem that has a flat landing and tops out to an easy walk off. That bolt is pretty haggard anyway! I do think an extension (sorry, I meant linkup:) up the second face could be fun though.

By Rodger Raubach
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Did this route as a farewell climb after a week in the then-Monument. With sore fingertips, it seemed a bit harder then than 10a, but that was just sore tips talking. Not a bomb, but close...barely one star.

With a bouldering pad would make a decent highball problem.

By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Nov 11, 2012

The bolt is almost falling out.

Definately an intriging route, albeit short.

By Rodger Raubach
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

There may have been a bolt replacement, since there is one with what appears to be a new hanger next to an older chopped bolt stub.

Use the magnification feature to check it out...
Use the magnification feature to check it out...