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Coney Island
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Unsorted Routes:

Gagger 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Jerry Moffat
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 9, 2006
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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located at the right end of Coney Island, Gagger climbs a dead vertical section of water streaked rock that is split by a large roof. For the most part the rock is very good, but the section below the roof is slightly flaky. This will change as the route receives more attention.

Cerebral sequences, delicate footwork, and uncomfortable liebacking lead to a long reach over the roof and a strenuous mantle on micro crimps. From here, the route eases up, but save some energy for the meandering slab and the exit moves.

To reduce rope drag caused by the roof, use a long draw at the bolt in the roof and the previous bolt.


Location 

Just right of Give A Dog A Bone, at the right end of Coney Island. Most people start on a small ledge at the base of the climb.


Protection 

Quickdraws and a 60 meter rope. Since this route starts about 20 feet up on a ledge, watch the end of your rope. Unfortunately, this route shares anchors with Give A Dog A Bone.



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By Ryan Malaty
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 12, 2007

DO NOT SPORT CLIMB THIS ROUTE IT NEEDS TO BE REBOLTED.



They are coming out of the wall.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jun 11, 2007

The anchors on this route are fine. One hanger is missing, but two still remain including a brand new one.