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Located at the right end of Coney Island, Gagger climbs a dead vertical section of water streaked rock that is split by a large roof. For the most part the rock is very good, but the section below the roof is slightly flaky. This will change as the route receives more attention.
Cerebral sequences, delicate footwork, and uncomfortable liebacking lead to a long reach over the roof and a strenuous mantle on micro crimps. From here, the route eases up, but save some energy for the meandering slab and the exit moves.
To reduce rope drag caused by the roof, use a long draw at the bolt in the roof and the previous bolt.
It is just right of Give A Dog A Bone
, at the right end of Coney Island. Most people start on a small ledge at the base of the climb.
Quickdraws and a 60 meter rope. Since this route starts about 20 feet up on a ledge, watch the end of your rope. Unfortunately, this route shares anchors with Give A Dog A Bone
By Ryan Malaty
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 12, 2007
DO NOT SPORT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. IT NEEDS TO BE REBOLTED.
They are coming out of the wall.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jun 11, 2007
The anchors on this route are fine. One hanger is missing, but two still remain including a brand new one.
By Chris Weidner
Mar 30, 2015
I hung or fell on every one of the bolts on this route in March, 2015. They seem safe to me.