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Gabba the Nut 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: Summer
Page Views: 262
Submitted By: WAGbag on Jul 23, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

A spectacular crux sequence should draw anybody breaking into the grade to this climb. Climb through the crux of Passover then split right at the undercling/block. Grab a quick shake here then head straight up to the bulge on small crimps. Clip then grab a small left sidepull to initiate the right traverse. The feet are terrible but the undercling cross to the pocket should make you remember why you love climbing. Pull over the bulge and find the 'thank god' clip hold or take the whip. Easier moves gain the anchors.

[Edit: Grade changed to reflect the comments below regarding the moved bolt. 13a posted to 12d]


Location 

Starts at the first bolt line on the left then splits at the undercling block, going straight up rather than angling left (Passover). Marginal belay stance.


Protection 

9 bolts



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By Caleb Hansen
From: Rapid City
Jul 25, 2012

Not .13 anymore i think lee moved to crux bolt, the move used to be out left with a windmill move to a crimp, sneaky bastard coin found the sequence to the pockets out right, still awesome route...

By Mikel Cronin
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

More like 12c, better now that it follows holds and not forced out left.

By lee terveen
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jul 26, 2012

maybe 12d sandbagger you still get pretty pumped and the direct way may have been a touch harder than 13a