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BETA PHOTO: Wizard's Gate Face Area. Topo courtesy Bob Siegri...
G3 connects Crystal Staircase
to the Riding with the Ravens
Clip the first 5 bolt on Crystal Staircase, and then move up and left to a body-length ceiling. Make several hero moves through the ceiling on huge jugs, and finish on a slab to the chains on Riding with the Ravens (7 more bolts).
One of the huge handholds in the roof is a wedged flake that may tear out some day -- seemed pretty solid when we climbed it. The bolts have been placed in a manner that, should the flake give way, I think you'd survive. Ask your belayer to move a little bit to the right as you pull the roof if you're having a bad luck day.
12 bolts protect the line.
By J. Albers
Dec 14, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Really fun route. The moves through the roof don't look 10+ from below, but it's all there on great features. Regarding the loose flake that Bernard mentioned, I gave it a tap when I arrived under the roof and decided that I didn't want to pull on it. Luckily you can simply undercling out right a bit (super positive undercling) and then make a big but super fun move up to the jugs over the roof. This is a totally reasonable solution that negates the need for the loose flake. Done this way the route might be 11a, though perhaps a tiny bit harder for short folks (YMMV).