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Wizard's Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterlife  
Black Magic  
Book of Spells 
Cloak and Dagger 
Crystal Staircase 
Dark Horse 
Dead End  
Fantasia 
G3 
Gatekeeper, The 
Guillotine, The 
Magic Carpet Ride  
Magic Dagger 
Merlin's Magic Corner 
Ravenclaw 
Riding with the Ravens 
Take Me to Your Leader 
Witchway Arete 
Wizard's Path 

G3 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 417
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 4, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Wizard's Gate Face Area. Topo courtesy Bob Siegri...

Description 

G3 connects Crystal Staircase to the Riding with the Ravens anchor.

Clip the first 5 bolt on Crystal Staircase, and then move up and left to a body-length ceiling. Make several hero moves through the ceiling on huge jugs, and finish on a slab to the chains on Riding with the Ravens (7 more bolts).

One of the huge handholds in the roof is a wedged flake that may tear out some day -- seemed pretty solid when we climbed it. The bolts have been placed in a manner that, should the flake give way, I think you'd survive. Ask your belayer to move a little bit to the right as you pull the roof if you're having a bad luck day.


Location 

Start on Crystal Staircase and then head left through a big overhang (crux) to the anchors on Riding with the Ravens.


Protection 

12 bolts protect the line.



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