Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wizard's Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterlife  S 
Black Magic  S 
Book of Spells T 
Cloak and Dagger S 
Crystal Staircase S 
Dark Horse S 
Dead End  T 
Fantasia T 
G3 S 
Gatekeeper, The S 
Guillotine, The S 
Magic Carpet Ride  S 
Magic Dagger S 
Merlin's Magic Corner T 
Ravenclaw T 
Riding with the Ravens S 
Take Me to Your Leader S 
Witchway Arete S 
Wizard's Path S 

G3 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Wizard's Gate Face Area. Topo courtesy Bob Siegri...

Description 

G3 connects Crystal Staircase to the Riding with the Ravens anchor.

Clip the first 5 bolt on Crystal Staircase, and then move up and left to a body-length ceiling. Make several hero moves through the ceiling on huge jugs, and finish on a slab to the chains on Riding with the Ravens (7 more bolts).

One of the huge handholds in the roof is a wedged flake that may tear out some day -- seemed pretty solid when we climbed it. The bolts have been placed in a manner that, should the flake give way, I think you'd survive. Ask your belayer to move a little bit to the right as you pull the roof if you're having a bad luck day.


Location 

Start on Crystal Staircase and then head left through a big overhang (crux) to the anchors on Riding with the Ravens.


Protection 

12 bolts protect the line.



Comments on G3 Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -