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g. V3 - Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absurdland T 
Alley Oop T 
Badfinger T 
Balrog T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Blunderbus T,TR 
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 
Bullfrog T 
Cakewalk T 
Cheap Thrills T 
City Streets T 
Commando Rave T 
Country Roads T 
Dat-Mantel T 
Dis-Mantel T 
Dry Heaves T 
Faithful Journey T 
Gory Thumb T 
J'accuse T 
Middle Earth T 
Never Never Land T 
Never Say Never T,TR 
Nevermore T 
On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
Snake T 
Snowpatch T 
Talus of Powder T 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 
Triangle T 
Turdland T 
V-3 T 
Wild Horses T 
Wisecrack T 
Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 

g. V3 - Middle Earth Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.74267, -74.18075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,797
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011  with updates from Kurtz and 1 more
Forecast:
Today

41° | 26°
Sunday

42° | 25°
Monday

38° | 23°
Tuesday

33° | 24°
Wednesday

36° | 18°
Thursday

26° | 13°
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Josh Byford in the midst of the Wisecrack crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

last area: Guide's Wall | next area: Arrow Wall to CCK

Description 

Major Features: This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy, V-3, Cakewalk, Never Never Land, Absurdland, Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Sente, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.

We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.

The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente / Thin Slabs area; past Snake, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow wall and area.

Approach: For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk or so, use the V-3 approach trail. For the Middle Earth and Thin Slabs areas, follow this 2010 masterpiece of trailwork .

Descent: In this area, mostly by trees at individual routes. Descend from the cliff top is possible for routes near Middle Earth via 3 single-rope rappels from bolt anchors. The clifftop anchor is next to the pine tree at the top of Middle Earth. And please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.
V-3 has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk and Never Never Land.
From the top of Thin Slabs, heading north to the Arrow bolted rappel line is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.

Routes, left-to-right 

Dat Mantel: 5.10, PG
Dis-Mantel: 5.10, G
Kernmantle: 5.8, PG
High Times: 5.9+, PG-R
Stop the Presses Mr. Williams: 5.8+, PG
Gory Thumb: 5.8+, G-PG
Raunchy: 5.8, PG
Wild Horses: 5.9, R
Badfinger: 5.9+, PG
Help!: 5.11+, R
Pleh: 5.11+, R
V-3: 5.7, G (**)
City Streets: 5.10, PG
Country Roads: 5.10, PG
Commando Rave: 5.9, PG
Metropolis: 5.11+, PG-R
Beyond the Fringe: 5.9, R
Balrog: 5.10, G-PG
Bullfrog: 5.12-, PG-R
Blind Alley: 5.8, PG
Dry Heaves: 5.8, PG
Alley Oop: 5.7, PG
Cheap Thrills: 5.10, PG
Deep Chills: 5.11+, R-X
Cakewalk: 5.7, PG (**)
Nurdland: 5.10, R
Turdland: 5.10+, PG
Triangle: 5.9-, PG
Nevermore: 5.10, PG-R
Never Say Never: 5.10, R-X
Never Never Land: 5.10-, PG (**)
J'accuse: 5.10, R
Welcome to my Nightmare: 5.10, X
Absurdland: 5.9, PG
Blunderbus: 5.9, R
Wisecrack: 5.6, G
Wiseland: 5.9+, PG-R
Wonderland: 5.8, PG
Faithful Journey: 5.8+, G
Middle Earth: 5.7-, G
Bombs Away Dream Baby: 5.8, G
Journey's End: 5.10-, G
Red's Ruin: 5.2, G
Smegma Garden and Pigeon: 4, G
Snowpatch: 5.5, PG
Sente: 5.9-, PG
Tenta: 5.10, TR
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct: 5.7, PG-R
On Any Monday: 5.11-, PG
Snake: 5.6, PG
Talus of Powder: 5.8, R-X

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

38 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',9],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for g. V3 - Middle Earth:
Middle Earth   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Wisecrack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Cakewalk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
V-3   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Alley Oop   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Absurdland   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bombs Away Dream Baby   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Raunchy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Wonderland   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Dry Heaves   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 80'   
Gory Thumb   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sente   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Badfinger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Commando Rave   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Never Never Land   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Nevermore   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Balrog   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
J'accuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cheap Thrills   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Featured Route For g. V3 - Middle Earth
Rock Climbing Photo: The only bolt is up and right 10ft...

Never Never Land 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth
This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of g. V3 - Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
BETA PHOTO: Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to clo...
BETA PHOTO: Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to clo...
Rock Climbing Photo: V-3 approach trail (note crossed dead trees on lef...
BETA PHOTO: V-3 approach trail (note crossed dead trees on lef...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike starting up Gory Thumb.  The climb continues ...
Mike starting up Gory Thumb. The climb continues ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin Slabs approach trail
BETA PHOTO: Thin Slabs approach trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Sente.
BETA PHOTO: Sente.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.

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