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g. V3 - Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alley Oop 
Beyond the Fringe 
Bombs Away Dream Baby 
City Streets 
Commando Rave 
Country Roads 
Dry Heaves 
Faithful Journey 
Gory Thumb 
Middle Earth 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
On Any Monday 
Red's Ruin 
Talus of Powder 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct 
Wild Horses 

g. V3 - Middle Earth 

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Page Views: 59,774
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
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Josh Byford in the midst of the Wisecrack crux.
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Along the Cliff 

last area: Guide's Wall | next area: Arrow Wall to CCK


Major Features: This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy, V-3, Cakewalk, Never Never Land, Absurdland, Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Sente, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.

We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.

The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente / Thin Slabs area; past Snake, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow wall and area.

Approach: For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk or so, use the V-3 trail (pic to follow in spring).

In 2010, Dick Williams and his all-volunteer trail crew built what is, thus far, the crown jewel of the trail-maintenance efforts: a set of painstakingly placed stone steps that provide secure footing directly to the cliff, in between Middle Earth and the Sente area.

Descent: In this area, mostly by trees at individual routes. V-3 has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk and Never Never Land. When rappelling from Middle Earth and surrounding routes, please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.

From the clifftop, heading north to the Arrow bolts is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.

Routes, left-to-right 

Dat Mantel: 5.10, PG
Dis-Mantel: 5.10, G
Kernmantle: 5.8, PG
High Times: 5.9+, PG-R
Stop the Presses Mr. Williams: 5.8+, PG
Gory Thumb: 5.8+, G-PG
Raunchy: 5.8, PG
Wild Horses: 5.9, R
Badfinger: 5.9+, PG
Help!: 5.11+, R
Pleh: 5.11+, R
V-3: 5.7, G (**)
City Streets: 5.10, PG
Country Roads: 5.10, PG
Commando Rave: 5.9, PG
Metropolis: 5.11+, PG-R
Beyond the Fringe: 5.9, R
Balrog: 5.10, G-PG
Bullfrog: 5.12-, PG-R
Blind Alley: 5.8, PG
Dry Heaves: 5.8, PG
Alley Oop: 5.7, PG
Cheap Thrills: 5.10, PG
Deep Chills: 5.11+, R-X
Cakewalk: 5.7, PG (**)
Nurdland: 5.10, R
Turdland: 5.10+, PG
Triangle: 5.9-, PG
Nevermore: 5.10, PG-R
Never Say Never: 5.10, R-X
Never Never Land: 5.10-, PG (**)
J'accuse: 5.10, R
Welcome to my Nightmare: 5.10, X
Absurdland: 5.9, PG
Blunderbus: 5.9, R
Wisecrack: 5.6, G
Wiseland: 5.9+, PG-R
Wonderland: 5.8, PG
Faithful Journey: 5.8+, G
Middle Earth: 5.7-, G
Bombs Away Dream Baby: 5.8, G
Journey's End: 5.10-, G
Red's Ruin: 5.2, G
Smegma Garden and Pigeon: 4, G
Snowpatch: 5.5, PG
Sente: 5.9-, PG
Tenta: 5.10, TR
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct: 5.7, PG-R
On Any Monday: 5.11-, PG
Snake: 5.6, PG
Talus of Powder: 5.8, R-X

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for g. V3 - Middle Earth:
Middle Earth   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Wisecrack   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Alley Oop   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
V-3   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cakewalk   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Absurdland   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bombs Away Dream Baby   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Raunchy   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dry Heaves   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 80'   
Turdland   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Triangle   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Gory Thumb   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sente   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Wild Horses   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Badfinger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Commando Rave   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Never Never Land   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
J'accuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Balrog   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Featured Route For g. V3 - Middle Earth
Becky Diamond securely wedged in the notch.

V-3 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth
Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band. P1: Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of g. V3 - Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the first and second cruxes.
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Mike starting up Gory Thumb.  The climb continues up the right hand crack in the photo.  The crack on the left is <a href='/v/wild-horses/106146799'>Wild Horses</a>.
Mike starting up Gory Thumb. The climb continues ...
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to close to the deck to feel confident about your gear.
BETA PHOTO: Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to clo...
Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to the tree.
BETA PHOTO: Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
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