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g. V3 - Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absurdland T 
Alley Oop T 
Badfinger T 
Balrog T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Blunderbus T,TR 
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 
Bullfrog T 
Cakewalk T 
Cheap Thrills T 
City Streets T 
Commando Rave T 
Country Roads T 
Dat-Mantel T 
Dis-Mantel T 
Dry Heaves T 
Faithful Journey T 
Gory Thumb T 
J'accuse T 
Middle Earth T 
Never Never Land T 
Never Say Never T,TR 
Nevermore T 
On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
Snake T 
Snowpatch T 
Talus of Powder T 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 
Triangle T 
Turdland T 
V-3 T 
Wild Horses T 
Wisecrack T 
Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 

g. V3 - Middle Earth  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.74267, -74.18075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 87,389
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
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You & This Area
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Josh Byford in the midst of the Wisecrack crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

last area: Guide's Wall | next area: Arrow Wall to CCK


Major Features: This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy, V-3, Cakewalk, Never Never Land, Absurdland, Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Sente, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.

We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.

The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente / Thin Slabs area; past Snake, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow wall and area.

Approach: For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk or so, use the V-3 trail (pic to follow in spring).

In 2010, Dick Williams and his all-volunteer trail crew built what is, thus far, the crown jewel of the trail-maintenance efforts: a set of painstakingly placed stone steps that provide secure footing directly to the cliff, in between Middle Earth and the Sente area.

Descent: In this area, mostly by trees at individual routes. V-3 has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk and Never Never Land. When rappelling from Middle Earth and surrounding routes, please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.

From the clifftop, heading north to the Arrow bolts is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.

Routes, left-to-right 

Dat Mantel: 5.10, PG
Dis-Mantel: 5.10, G
Kernmantle: 5.8, PG
High Times: 5.9+, PG-R
Stop the Presses Mr. Williams: 5.8+, PG
Gory Thumb: 5.8+, G-PG
Raunchy: 5.8, PG
Wild Horses: 5.9, R
Badfinger: 5.9+, PG
Help!: 5.11+, R
Pleh: 5.11+, R
V-3: 5.7, G (**)
City Streets: 5.10, PG
Country Roads: 5.10, PG
Commando Rave: 5.9, PG
Metropolis: 5.11+, PG-R
Beyond the Fringe: 5.9, R
Balrog: 5.10, G-PG
Bullfrog: 5.12-, PG-R
Blind Alley: 5.8, PG
Dry Heaves: 5.8, PG
Alley Oop: 5.7, PG
Cheap Thrills: 5.10, PG
Deep Chills: 5.11+, R-X
Cakewalk: 5.7, PG (**)
Nurdland: 5.10, R
Turdland: 5.10+, PG
Triangle: 5.9-, PG
Nevermore: 5.10, PG-R
Never Say Never: 5.10, R-X
Never Never Land: 5.10-, PG (**)
J'accuse: 5.10, R
Welcome to my Nightmare: 5.10, X
Absurdland: 5.9, PG
Blunderbus: 5.9, R
Wisecrack: 5.6, G
Wiseland: 5.9+, PG-R
Wonderland: 5.8, PG
Faithful Journey: 5.8+, G
Middle Earth: 5.7-, G
Bombs Away Dream Baby: 5.8, G
Journey's End: 5.10-, G
Red's Ruin: 5.2, G
Smegma Garden and Pigeon: 4, G
Snowpatch: 5.5, PG
Sente: 5.9-, PG
Tenta: 5.10, TR
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct: 5.7, PG-R
On Any Monday: 5.11-, PG
Snake: 5.6, PG
Talus of Powder: 5.8, R-X

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for g. V3 - Middle Earth:
Middle Earth   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Wisecrack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Cakewalk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
V-3   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Alley Oop   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Raunchy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Absurdland   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bombs Away Dream Baby   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Dry Heaves   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 80'   
Gory Thumb   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sente   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Triangle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Badfinger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Never Never Land   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Nevermore   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
J'accuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Balrog   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Cheap Thrills   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bullfrog   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Featured Route For g. V3 - Middle Earth
The only bolt is up and right 10ft...

Never Never Land 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth
This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of g. V3 - Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
BETA PHOTO: Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
Mike starting up Gory Thumb.  The climb continues ...
Mike starting up Gory Thumb. The climb continues ...
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to clo...
BETA PHOTO: Dry Heaves: A great traverse, just a little to clo...

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