Josh Byford in the midst of the Wisecrack crux.
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Along the Cliff
This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy
, Never Never Land
, Middle Earth
, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth
, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.
We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel
and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.
The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente
/ Thin Slabs area; past Snake
, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow
wall and area. Approach:
For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk
or so, use the V-3
trail (pic to follow in spring).
In 2010, Dick Williams and his all-volunteer trail crew built what is, thus far, the crown jewel of the trail-maintenance efforts: a set of painstakingly placed stone steps that provide secure footing directly to the cliff, in between Middle Earth
and the Sente
In this area, mostly by trees at individual routes. V-3
has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk
and Never Never Land
. When rappelling from Middle Earth
and surrounding routes, please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.
From the clifftop, heading north to the Arrow bolts is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.
Dat Mantel: 5.10, PG Dis-Mantel
: 5.10, G
Kernmantle: 5.8, PG
High Times: 5.9+, PG-R
Stop the Presses Mr. Williams: 5.8+, PG Gory Thumb
: 5.8+, G-PG Raunchy
: 5.8, PG Wild Horses
: 5.9, R Badfinger
: 5.9+, PG
Help!: 5.11+, R
Pleh: 5.11+, R V-3
: 5.7, G (**) City Streets
: 5.10, PG Country Roads
: 5.10, PG Commando Rave
: 5.9, PG
Metropolis: 5.11+, PG-R Beyond the Fringe
: 5.9, R Balrog
: 5.10, G-PG
Bullfrog: 5.12-, PG-R
Blind Alley: 5.8, PG Dry Heaves
: 5.8, PG Alley Oop
: 5.7, PG
Cheap Thrills: 5.10, PG
Deep Chills: 5.11+, R-X Cakewalk
: 5.7, PG (**)
Nurdland: 5.10, R Turdland
: 5.10+, PG Triangle
: 5.9-, PG
Nevermore: 5.10, PG-R Never Say Never
: 5.10, R-X Never Never Land
: 5.10-, PG (**) J'accuse
: 5.10, R
Welcome to my Nightmare: 5.10, X Absurdland
: 5.9, PG
Blunderbus: 5.9, R Wisecrack
: 5.6, G
Wiseland: 5.9+, PG-R Wonderland
: 5.8, PG Faithful Journey
: 5.8+, G Middle Earth
: 5.7-, G Bombs Away Dream Baby
: 5.8, G
Journey's End: 5.10-, G
Red's Ruin: 5.2, G
Smegma Garden and Pigeon: 4, G
Snowpatch: 5.5, PG Sente
: 5.9-, PG
Tenta: 5.10, TR Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
: 5.7, PG-R On Any Monday
: 5.11-, PG Snake
: 5.6, PG Talus of Powder
: 5.8, R-X
Weather station 2.3 miles from here
38 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in g. V3 - Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for g. V3 - Middle Earth:
Wisecrack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Cakewalk 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
V-3 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Alley Oop 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Absurdland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Raunchy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Triangle 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Sente 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Gory Thumb 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Badfinger 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Wild Horses 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Nevermore 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
J'accuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Balrog 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For g. V3 - Middle Earth
Never Never Land 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NY
: The Gunks
: ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth
This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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