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 ADVANCED
a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alphonse T 
Baskerville Terrace T 
Broken Sling T 
Criss T 
Criss Cross Direct T 
Disney Point T 
Disneyland T 
Easy Rider T 
Fat City Direct T 
Fat Stick T 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 
G-String Giants T 
Gelsa T 
Grand Central T 
Hounds, The T 
Independence T 
Infinite Space T 
Inverted Layback T 
Kansas City T 
Land of The Giants T 
Layback T 
Le Plie T 
Outer Space T 
Saint Louis T 
Sling Time T 
Swing Time T 
Te Dum T 
Yellow Belly T 
Yellow Ridge T 

G-String Giants 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 14, 2011

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Description 

This route is the link up of the start of G-String and the finish of Land of the Giants. It possesses quite a bit of climbing with several 5.7 cruxes after the initial 5.8 traverse crux. The route finding is a little bit tricky.

Walk up the ramp to the base of the flaring off-width. Climb up and right to a horizontal crack below an overhang. Traverse right about 5 feet to gain good hands. At this point the book says to climb up the slab before traversing 10-12 feet right at a large horizontal. (I, however, continued to traverse right before climbing the right facing Gelsa corner for 5 feet.) No matter which route you take, you will find yourself at the base of a crack with several horizontal holds to its right. Continue to climb this crack/weakness up. You will eventually arrive at a small left facing corner 5-7 feet tall. Climb this and move around up and right to the bolted Fat City Direct belay/rap-station. If you are using a 70m rope you can be lowered from here.

Location 

The route starts 15 feet left of Gelsa on a rightward arching off-width at the top of a small ramp that rises from right to left.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack with some micro cams.


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