Fuzz 5.10 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Goldstein and Fox, 1994 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 28, 2005 |
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Tony on The Fuzz, lower section before it gets ste...
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Description This route is the obvious left-facing corner up and right of approach trail's intersection with the rock. This is 50M right of Way Rambo and just right and facing the popular warm-up, Rochambeau.Climbinto the awkward slot and then up and right to enter the corner. Climb up good jamming at a low angle with some nice ledges for rest here and there. Use these ledges for a complete de-pump to avoid enduro fatigue at the finish. Continue climbing, placing widening gear on the upper section, with good undercling hand-jams. Finish on 3" cams under the right-leaning crack/flake to grab the finishing holds and get into the finger slots to clip the anchors from. Great finish to a great climb. A 70M rope is required to lower off or TR this line.
Protection The bottom is an awkward slot that is not well protected. A 1.5" cam in a 'soft' horizontal protects a move 4 meters up that enters the main corner system and gets you to good pro. Get a spot.After that, the route is mostly 1.5"-3", heavy on the 3" pro, incluing at the pumpy crux up top.
Use a 70M rope to get all the way down.
Alex
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Dave cruises 'The Fuzz (5.10)' at Way Rambo Wall i...
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Dave further up 'The Fuzz (5.10)' at Way Rambo Wal...
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Dave near topping out on the long and clean crack ...
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At the anchor bringing K Bev up...
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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2006
| Great route. Save some #2 camalots for the steep section at the top! Better yet, save some strength for the final move!
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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Mar 24, 2007
rating: 5.10
| Acording to the bloom book it is 130ft....well a 70m got me down with about 2 feet to spare.....also this is MUCH better then the sandy and loose choss pile to the left raushampooooo |
By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 1, 2007
| Excellent warm-up. My 70m was a little short when I didn't clean the gear on the way down. Straight line to the anchors a 70 is fine. |
By Braxtron
From: ...
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10
| Though the start is awkward and not well-protected, I don't think this climb is R-rated. |
By Scott W
From: Roy, UT
Nov 14, 2008
rating: 5.10
| Not even close to being R rated, not even PG, completely safe climb and soft for the grade. I got down with a 60 meter with rope on the ground, not sure what people are saying about 70m ropes not making it down. |
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10
| Not quite, dude. We had a 70m and it was exactly enough. Maybe you were on a different route. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10
| Definitely needs a 70m rope. Watch the sandy smears on top!! Awesome pitch. |
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 6, 2011
| If you got down with a 60, you were definitely on the wrong route. To rap, a 70 is plenty, but to second the route (with the rope running through gear), a 70 may be too short. When I lowered off with my 70 I wound up about 10 feet short of the ground. |
By slim
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| pretty good route. the flake/undercling at the end is a bit unnerving as the rock is pretty thin. the anchors are in hollow rock. |
By NickinCO
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 13, 2012
| Not sure how or why this would be rated "R". The top is #2 camalots, not #3's. 70m rope worked fine for us. |
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Nov 29, 2012
| I would like to offer a sincerely, fully, deeply, heart-felt "F" "U" to the jackoff asshat who scratched the graffiti on this route. Keep your scrawling to the city streets, jerk. |
By Timmy Foulkes
Feb 15, 2013
| Once you reach the hands free rest near the top, the steeper crack starts to slim down, not widen as the description mentions. It goes from 3 Camalots to 3 Friends then on down to 2 Camalots at the top. |
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