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 ADVANCED
6. Echo Roof
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Wizard Of Oz S 

Future Shock 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA Alain Comeau, Steve Larson
Page Views: 3,499
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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slippery stuff..

Description 

Balance your way up the dike as you will your feet to stick. Hand holds are almost non-existent, and foot work is technical and fun. The bolts are not "sport climb" close, but skidding down the wall isn't dangerous so long as you wear pants. As far as aesthetic lines go, they don't get prettier than this.

Pitch 1: Follow the dike described above. You will encounter a slippery crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. After the crux it eases up slightly, but don't let your guard down. One more quite hard move gains a good edge below the anchor, mantle and take a deep breath.

Pitch 2: Rarely done. Step left from the belay to a solution pocket. Aid past 3 bolts, mantle on the ledge, and belay from a tree on the right.

Location 

Between Ethereal Buttress (Ethereal Crack, 5.10d) and Echo Roof. You can't miss it.

Protection 

Quickdraws for first pitch. May need gear for second pitch. Two rope rap from ledge.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2014
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Apr 15, 2007

It's a gorgeous line. If you time it right, there's a free biner for your effort. I have to say thanks to Ben R. for being so relentless about getting us onto this climb. Maybe when I grow up I'll make it from #3 to #4 on the 1st attempt. Until then I'll be more than overjoyed to get my butt repeatedly handed to me. Gear Beta, a Red Bull for the belayer, "keep a weather eye".
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 5, 2007

A killer climb.... I just sent yesterday (I tried it once last year).... A very slippery and technical climb, and it's not over after bolt #4, though getting there is the crux for sure.... It's cool to have such a hard route with pretty much no hand holds to speak of.... Highly recommended....
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 6, 2007

Evil Slab!
By Lindsay Duca
Nov 6, 2007

Love, love, love it despite the fall between the 3rd and 4th bolt. It doesn't end until the chain anchor either, which is not to mention a mantel to the chains. It's great to find a route that is not all about power!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

When Al Comeau was trying to free this route, he took a lot of time(remember EB's) . We wanted him to re-name the route "inchworm".
By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Sep 18, 2008

Hell yess.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 20, 2009

In Ed Webster's book this route is rated 5.11c and in the Jerry Handren book it gets 5.11a. I think its a really hard one to rate due to its slippery nature. If you hit the right foot holds and nail the right body positions its not too bad, if anything is off, so are you. I called it 5.11c because its hard, but if you are a slab queen (or king) you might just walk it... When i climb it i could care less what they grade it I'm just happy to clip the next bolt or if I'm really lucky, the chains...
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Gotta remember the inside out right foot cross step and the crux goes better.
By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

this is by far my favorite .11 i like how it is a more of a technical climb rather that power and pump. i love the cross step movements and the crux is thin and slippery but very fun. anywhere after the second bolt makes a safe fall. i took one whip the first time going through the crux (bolt 3 to 4) and it was by far the safest slab fall i've had with no skidding on the slab.
By sthomas
Nov 25, 2012



Video of Futureshock send.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Nice ! Always gotta remember to get to the belay before the water seeps get you. i love that the only real hold on the route is the belay ledge
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jan 25, 2013

The falls on this are suprisingly fun and safe after the second bolt. There is no longer a second pitch. Bolts were chopped.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jan 25, 2013

Anyone know if the second pitch was ever climbed free?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Chopped ? Really ? I almost got P2 free around '90 or so. It will go for sure, 13a or so.
Maybe they fell out
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

You too John? I came within about 35' of freeing that second pitch myself...
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A bit closer to 3.5' really.very close but no go.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 14, 2014

No handholds. No footholds. The perfect hard slab climb. If the wind is gusting above about 3 mph, watch out. Yep, it's that delicate. And this is one of those routes where temperature and humidity really matter (55 degrees with air as dry as a bone is perfect). Get on it! It's brilliant!