Balance your way up the dike as you will your feet to stick. Hand holds are almost non-existent, and foot work is technical and fun. The bolts are not "sport climb" close, but skidding down the wall isn't dangerous so long as you wear pants. As far as aesthetic lines go, they don't get prettier than this.
Pitch 1: Follow the dike described above. You will encounter a slippery crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. After the crux it eases up slightly, but don't let your guard down. One more quite hard move gains a good edge below the anchor, mantle and take a deep breath.
Pitch 2: Rarely done. Step left from the belay to a solution pocket. Aid past 3 bolts, mantle on the ledge, and belay from a tree on the right.
Between Ethereal Buttress (Ethereal Crack, 5.10d) and Echo Roof. You can't miss it.
Quickdraws for first pitch. May need gear for second pitch. Two rope rap from ledge.
It's a gorgeous line. If you time it right, there's a free biner for your effort. I have to say thanks to Ben R. for being so relentless about getting us onto this climb. Maybe when I grow up I'll make it from #3 to #4 on the 1st attempt. Until then I'll be more than overjoyed to get my butt repeatedly handed to me. Gear Beta, a Red Bull for the belayer, "keep a weather eye".
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 5, 2007
A killer climb.... I just sent yesterday (I tried it once last year).... A very slippery and technical climb, and it's not over after bolt #4, though getting there is the crux for sure.... It's cool to have such a hard route with pretty much no hand holds to speak of.... Highly recommended....
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 6, 2007
Love, love, love it despite the fall between the 3rd and 4th bolt. It doesn't end until the chain anchor either, which is not to mention a mantel to the chains. It's great to find a route that is not all about power!
By john strand From: southern colo Jul 1, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
When Al Comeau was trying to free this route, he took a lot of time(remember EB's) . We wanted him to re-name the route "inchworm".
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Sep 20, 2009
In Ed Webster's book this route is rated 5.11c and in the Jerry Handren book it gets 5.11a. I think its a really hard one to rate due to its slippery nature. If you hit the right foot holds and nail the right body positions its not too bad, if anything is off, so are you. I called it 5.11c because its hard, but if you are a slab queen (or king) you might just walk it... When i climb it i could care less what they grade it I'm just happy to clip the next bolt or if I'm really lucky, the chains...
By john strand From: southern colo Sep 30, 2009 rating: 5.11a/b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Gotta remember the inside out right foot cross step and the crux goes better.
By patrick donahue From: Gunnison, Colorado Oct 21, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
this is by far my favorite .11 i like how it is a more of a technical climb rather that power and pump. i love the cross step movements and the crux is thin and slippery but very fun. anywhere after the second bolt makes a safe fall. i took one whip the first time going through the crux (bolt 3 to 4) and it was by far the safest slab fall i've had with no skidding on the slab.
No handholds. No footholds. The perfect hard slab climb. If the wind is gusting above about 3 mph, watch out. Yep, it's that delicate. And this is one of those routes where temperature and humidity really matter (55 degrees with air as dry as a bone is perfect). Get on it! It's brilliant!