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Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 
Destruction T 
Double Life T 
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 
Future Primitive T 
Gambit T 
Ginseng Junkie T 
Giuoco Piano Direct T 
King Of Pain T,S,TR 
Missing Link T 
Moriarty's Mistake T 
Moriarty's Revenge T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 
Serrated Jam Crack T 
Sorenson Crack T 
Throne, The T,S 
Tiger Balm Arete T 
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 

Future Primitive 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, solo
Page Views: 1,618
Submitted By: pete cogan on Oct 5, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Larry Pedigo happy to be on the summit of ShirtTai...

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  • Description 

    A fun route up the Giucco Piano Arete that ends up on the top of ShirtTail Peak.

    P1 -- To start, scramble up and right past the vertical lower section of the arete (Rossiter). You'll start at a big tree in an alcove, and climb about 40 feet up along a discontinuous L facing dihedral to another large tree with slings.Past the tree it's up a gully, and at 100 head L into a rotten band.

    P2 -- Climb through 2 bushes (amusing if you're in the right mood), and head L at the first available crack. A 3.5 cam fits nicely here, and now the climbing is terrific: exposed airy moves heading straight to the arete. A bit loose. Excellent pro on the far side of the arete for anchors.100 feet.

    P3 -- Up the arete, 130 feet, to a false summit. Beautiful.

    P4 -- Climb the SE arete to the summit. 100 feet.

    If the first pitch and a half weren't so bushy, I'd say 2 stars. Still, this is a fun, well-protected moderate climb.


    Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot, med to big stoppers. I found small tricams helpful.

    Photos of Future Primitive Slideshow Add Photo
    Jason Shatek moving up the very airy arete on the ...
    Jason Shatek moving up the very airy arete on the ...
    Unknown climber cruising the arete on P3.
    Unknown climber cruising the arete on P3.
    Jason Shatek moving up the arete on the third pitc...
    Jason Shatek moving up the arete on the third pitc...
    Larry leading up the second pitch
    Larry leading up the second pitch
    Mollie having fun at the end of the second pitch
    Mollie having fun at the end of the second pitch
    Aaron Ramras free solo on Future Primitive.
    Aaron Ramras free solo on Future Primitive.

    Comments on Future Primitive Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 12, 2004

    Did this route last Saturday. This route is very mountaineerish. Lots of bushes and loose rock everywhere. The Eldo guide book made by Falcon we had was worthless, not even a line to indicate where the route went. Thus, for P1 we went straight up the gully 20 feet past the red rotten ledge to a large tree with several slings on it (150 feet). Avoid the urge to go up the red rotten ledge to the arete. The arete looked overhanging there and, I am guessing, 5.10ish. For P2 we stayed about 30 feet below the arete and moved through several bushes one of which was thorny. We followed a large crack system with about a million variations. Belay was set up at a moderate sized tree about 20 feet below the arete on the south side (~150 feet). The last pitch was very easy probably all [fourth] class climbing. For P3 we came up to the arete right where you cross to the other side of a large gully and up to the top of Shirt Tail another 150 foot pitch. The trail to this route is very poor with loose rock everywhere. There was lots of [vegetation] and loose rock everywhere but the pro placements were pretty good. Also the rappel station 100-150 ft to the north of the summit was pretty good, a little forth class downclimbing (20 feet) and it's a breeze after that, 3 quick 60-70 foot repels and we could walk off. Count on taking some time to figure out where the route goes! A good climb with a great view, but I wouldn't give it any stars. -Jason
    By carla
    Jun 29, 2006

    Did this route last Mo. A so-so route, with lots of loose rock, and vegetation. But gets you to a great summit! For pitch one, we stayed in the gully and belayed at a tree (~ 150 ft), and pitch 2 brought us all the way up to the ridge, with a right traverse into a gully at the end. Pitch 3, on the ridge/face was maybe 5.5, and pitch 4 mostly a scramble. Good climbing in spots on the face, but not a stellar route in my judgement. Not recommended for novice leaders because of the difficulties of dealing with the tons of loose rock and challenging route finding.
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