Futile Attraction 

Thanks to Kevin for the hard work and his willingness to let others enjoy his routes. Fun route, but thought I'd throw in my experience of why this route is tainted for me now. I became very intrigued as soon as I saw this beauty so of coarse I hoped on it not knowing what it was. I was cruising along enjoying every move, clipped both bolts got to a stance on the headwall were it became kinda mossy, slung a horn, placed an RP and moved right grabing the arete. The next thing I knew a basketball-sized rock breaks off in my hand, I yell rock just in time to look back and watch it land right on my dog's leg. I pull the move and finish the onsight but got to spend the rest of the day carrying a 70lb husky out of the ridge and back to the car. The break was so bad she may loose her leg.... Sorry for the downer, but the route is much cleaner now. I don't want to scare anyone away but be careful up there this is not your typical Platte granite.

Monty, I am truly sorry about your dog. When you say you stepped right and grabbed the arete up high I believe you were in virgin territory, splitting / combining two routes. Futile stays left on the flat wall - and So Wild climbs on the wall which has all the overlaps. I think you did a F.A. by combining the two maybe. I don't know exactly where you were from your post. More importantly, I hope your dog heals and gets better soon.

Monty, best wishes for your dogs recovery.

Hey thanks guys, I hope all is well. Kevin thanks for adding that head wall pic. From where you were I was just right in the wanna be crack system there. I had grabbed a hold on the underside of that roof. The moves still felt about 11- ish but are much cleaner now. Regardless it was still a fun route. I just wish I could have enjoyed it a little more. See you out there!

Due to broken face hold by the second bolt this route is considerably harder- probably 5.12.

Awesome route...needs traffic to clean up!
Small tcu's and RP's protect the final section after the last bolt.

Killer start, and a creative line up high. Didn't feel anywhere near 5.12, though.

-Scott

Amazing movement, some really unique situations.

Note: as of May 2011 a flake above the last bolt (before the route slabs out) is loose. I don't recommend placing in it. Place a #0.75 Camalot down and right or run it out to a tricky but good #0.5 Camalot placement before turning the final roof/corner.

Felt like 5.11, especially in comparison to The Expensive Route in Wasp Canyon.