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The For Real Canyon
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Real Black Velvet S 
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Futile Attraction 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: K. Mclaughlin, Mike Johnson, & Schuler
Season: anytime
Page Views: 2,278
Submitted By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Futile Attraction, easy to be drawn to.

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb splitter fingers with an arete to a steep headwall.

Location 

This ascends the obvious fingers crack next to an arete.

Protection 

Cams, wires, 2 bolts.


Photos of Futile Attraction Slideshow Add Photo
Middle section of Futile.
Middle section of Futile.
Fun moves, before the business.
Fun moves, before the business.
Last moves on the headwall
Last moves on the headwall

Comments on Futile Attraction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Thanks to Kevin for the hard work and his willingness to let others enjoy his routes. Fun route, but thought I'd throw in my experience of why this route is tainted for me now. I became very intrigued as soon as I saw this beauty so of coarse I hoped on it not knowing what it was. I was cruising along enjoying every move, clipped both bolts got to a stance on the headwall were it became kinda mossy, slung a horn, placed an RP and moved right grabing the arete. The next thing I knew a basketball-sized rock breaks off in my hand, I yell rock just in time to look back and watch it land right on my dog's leg. I pull the move and finish the onsight but got to spend the rest of the day carrying a 70lb husky out of the ridge and back to the car. The break was so bad she may loose her leg.... Sorry for the downer, but the route is much cleaner now. I don't want to scare anyone away but be careful up there this is not your typical Platte granite.
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 28, 2008

Monty, I am truly sorry about your dog. When you say you stepped right and grabbed the arete up high I believe you were in virgin territory, splitting / combining two routes. Futile stays left on the flat wall - and So Wild climbs on the wall which has all the overlaps. I think you did a F.A. by combining the two maybe. I don't know exactly where you were from your post. More importantly, I hope your dog heals and gets better soon.
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Mar 29, 2008

Monty, best wishes for your dogs recovery.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 31, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Hey thanks guys, I hope all is well. Kevin thanks for adding that head wall pic. From where you were I was just right in the wanna be crack system there. I had grabbed a hold on the underside of that roof. The moves still felt about 11- ish but are much cleaner now. Regardless it was still a fun route. I just wish I could have enjoyed it a little more. See you out there!
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 9, 2008

Due to broken face hold by the second bolt this route is considerably harder- probably 5.12.
By Dave Russell
Jun 7, 2009

Awesome route...needs traffic to clean up!
Small tcu's and RP's protect the final section after the last bolt.
By Scott Bennett
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Killer start, and a creative line up high. Didn't feel anywhere near 5.12, though.

-Scott
By Drew Thayer
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 19, 2011

Amazing movement, some really unique situations.

Note: as of May 2011 a flake above the last bolt (before the route slabs out) is loose. I don't recommend placing in it. Place a #0.75 Camalot down and right or run it out to a tricky but good #0.5 Camalot placement before turning the final roof/corner.

Felt like 5.11, especially in comparison to The Expensive Route in Wasp Canyon.
By ChanVan
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Not to be a naysayer here, but I didn't think this route was all that great after the first 30 feet (the sweet crack and arete). To stay out on the face and go directly up past the bolts seems totally contrived, as you can easily step right into the chossy corner the whole way up. I took the path of least resistance and ended up basically climbing half on the face half in the kitty litter corner, which was kind weird and had a lot of pebbles falling on my belayer. I fully understand that that crack and arete absolutely had to be climbed but just felt like the top seemed a bit forced. All in all, still fun but not as classic as the neighboring routes.
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 26, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Really cool route with a series of high steps, mantels, and long reaches to good stances. If you are anywhere near kitty litter while passing the second bolt, you are way too far right! An improbable hold and sequence left of the second bolt will reward you with good rock and great moves.