Funny Games  5.12d R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Josh Deuto, August, 2001 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Aug 26, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: From up near the Ghetto.

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>;&g>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This route is in the gully leading up to the Ghetto on the back (west) side of the 3rd Flatiron as you approach from the Royal Arch Trail. It is on the un-named spire just up the gully from W.C. Fields Pinnacle and about 120 feet south of and below the scramble up into the Ghetto.

An existing route, Holier Than Thou (11b) climbs the right side of the west overhang via 5 bolts, and a pin to double bolt anchors. Funny Games is just left and can be easily toproped off the double bolts at the top of the spire.

Start off the platform, place a #1 Camalot in the rotten break and move up and right into holes (5.10s). Cruise up bomber huecos past a #3 Camalot to a ledge with an old 1/4 bolt on the left (ignore this bolt). Move right and clip the pin on Holier Than Thou, preferably backing it up. Move back left into the center of the bulge and fire past sidepulls and huecos to the small black streak at the top of the wall (12+ with decent whipper potential onto small gear).

Protection 

Bring Camalots #1 and #3, as well as a good assortment of small TCUs and small-middling wires to back up the pin at the crux.