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Funky Gold Patina 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: S.McCorkel, K. Strobel, J.Breidt, March 30, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: morkel on May 16, 2012
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Stroblinski climbing.

Description 

P1. This route starts with Eagle's Beak. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when Eagles's Beak moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under Sea Biscuit), which leads to a set of anchors for Sea Biscuit. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.

Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.

P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.

Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.


Location 

This is two routes uphill and to the right of Tijuana Donkey Show. TDS has a bolt about 40 feet up. See the photo under Eagle's Beak.


Protection 

Variable rack from about 1/2 inch to a #3 Camalot. Extra thin hands, and hands for the upper belay.



Photos of Funky Gold Patina Slideshow Add Photo
Stroblinski on top.
Stroblinski on top.
Comments on Funky Gold Patina Add Comment
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By Dave Holliday
Aug 27, 2012

"Be advised, after further inspection from a south-easterly vantage, the summit headwall appears detached."

Maybe it would be wise to remove the bolts on the upper headwall? My partner studied the rock a bit up there and decided to continue up the finger crack and exit stage left to a good ledge. From there, you can easily get to the Neighsayer anchor or scramble to the left and walk back down to the base.

By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 16, 2012

Done. Exit up the crack to the left of the summit block. Not nearly as cool but indeed safer.

[edit] Okay I'll admit, I left the studs in there, if you're not scared bring two 3/8" nuts and hangers to do the direct finish, totally worth it.

The summit.
The summit.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 2, 2013

Steve, are you a Tone Loc Fan?

By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 7, 2013

Guy, good one, thanks for that. I have not considered how long ago this tune came out. It's like original hip hop, 1989 (I had to check). That might date us both. "...I through her out, I don't mess around with no Oscar Mayer Wiener, better make sure your girl is pure for Funky Cold Medina...."

You know.
You know.