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Start on thin vertical/slabby face climbing, heading left near the top of the first section. Head back right as you scramble up to the base of the headwall. Then, head up on excellent moves and good rock past 3 or 4 bolts.
In the middle of the right facing wall, just left of Gomerwood.
Bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Maybe take a .75 camalot for between the first two bolts of the headwall near the top.
By jesse gross
Feb 2, 2009
3 bolts on the slab then 3 bolts on the headwall (and yes bring a .75 for comfort). This is the local testpiece and one of the best routes Warsaw has to offer. Butis certainly on the upper end of 5.10. many a 5.11 leader has fallen attempting the onsight.