|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||J. Erickson, D. Furguson, 1970|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 5, 2001|
|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Funeral March||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 4, 2005
|For a non-OW climber, this route can be done with a fair bit of face climbing. As such, 5.9 may be soft. Pro is still big.|
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 25, 2009
|Easier than the off-width on the Grand Giraffe. I was glad to have 2 #6 Camalots and a blue Big Bro. The flake in the crack you can place smaller gear in is loose. This is a good climb if you enjoy a little groveling.|
By Rich Farnham
Jan 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The hardest climbing (the first 10-15' of the wide crack) is well protected with #6 Camalots (C4, i.e. #5 old-style), but they get pretty tipped out higher up. The upper half of the climb has a flake in the back that I placed some Aliens behind. It didn't feel particularly loose to me (compared to the one in the back at the start of the climb), but I also wasn't positive that the gear would have held a fall.
Jay's recommedation of 2 #6s and a blue Big Bro worked well for me. A single set of other gear will more than cover the rest.
I found this to be a pretty good climb (if you're into this kind of thing). There aren't a lot of good OW cracks on the Front Range, but I found this to be a good one to get some training laps on. The lead is a little junky, but if you just want some OW training laps this can be easily toproped by climbing Hand Crack (aka White Lightning).
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Still some loose stuff on the upper part of this route. If you choose to do the direct finish be very careful.|
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 4, 2013
|About 75 pounds of rock came out of the upper section this weekend. It is probably best to cut left to the hand crack finish. Scary!|
By Eric Klammer
From: Kremmtucky, CO
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
This thing crushed my body and soul. Way harder than I expected giving the 5.9- rating in the guidebook. My second was able to follow it rather easily with a fair amount of face climbing, but on lead with 1 #6 and a few crappy Aliens behind loose and crumbly flakes, you can bet I was in full on squeeze chimney mode. That being said, while scary, this climb was oddly enjoyable. The sequence I used to pull the final roof was certainly something to witness. Legs wrapped around that final big fin, slowly humping and huffing away. Ahh memories....
Also, final roof looks clear of loose blocks. It's a fitting finale to the route, don't miss out!