|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||J. Erickson, D. Furguson, 1970|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 5, 2001|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Funeral March||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 4, 2005
|For a non-OW climber, this route can be done with a fair bit of face climbing. As such, 5.9 may be soft. Pro is still big.|
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 25, 2009
|Easier than the off-width on the Grand Giraffe. I was glad to have 2 #6 Camalots and a blue Big Bro. The flake in the crack you can place smaller gear in is loose. This is a good climb if you enjoy a little groveling.|
By Rich Farnham
Jan 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The hardest climbing (the first 10-15' of the wide crack) is well protected with #6 Camalots (C4, i.e. #5 old-style), but they get pretty tipped out higher up. The upper half of the climb has a flake in the back that I placed some Aliens behind. It didn't feel particularly loose to me (compared to the one in the back at the start of the climb), but I also wasn't positive that the gear would have held a fall.
Jay's recommedation of 2 #6s and a blue Big Bro worked well for me. A single set of other gear will more than cover the rest.
I found this to be a pretty good climb (if you're into this kind of thing). There aren't a lot of good OW cracks on the Front Range, but I found this to be a good one to get some training laps on. The lead is a little junky, but if you just want some OW training laps this can be easily toproped by climbing Hand Crack (aka White Lightning).
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Still some loose stuff on the upper part of this route. If you choose to do the direct finish be very careful.|
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 4, 2013
|About 75 pounds of rock came out of the upper section this weekend. It is probably best to cut left to the hand crack finish. Scary!|