Full Tilt  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Dale Bard 1977 Submitted By:  V.X. on Jun 30, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>> On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Walk up the approach ramp up and right past "Slipstream" several hundred feed. Keep going up and right until a brushy ledge system is reached. Go right until you find yourself under a 60' white detached tooth. The right side is "Full Tilt" and features a hard offwidth roof maybe 12 feet of the ground. The roof leads into an easier 5.8 dihedral. This climb is easy to toprope by chimneying the left side of the tooth, "Inside Out", and then climbing into and out the cave behind the tooth (5.6). Toprope/descend off chain anchors. A great location on Black Wall with views of Donner. The ratings in guidebooks are always off on this climb because it never gets a send. It is full on hard 11 OW roof.

Protection 

Cams 2"-5.5".