|Original:||YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tom Rangitsch on Sep 23, 2008|
|Comments on Full Tilt||Add Comment|
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By Jikimika Dinglehoffer
From: Lander, Wy
Oct 6, 2016
This route goes on gear. After working and sending the route on bolts, Chris Marley led the route placing gear on lead (3 pieces, mostly to protect the crux, primarily small units and such), red-pointing without clipping any bolts, except the chains. It may be hard to adequately protect the 5.12- section at the bottom, but there is bomber gear below the upper crux.
Obv. the bolts belong there, I can't imagine making the gear safe on an onsight attempt, but headpointing a steep seam like this provides an interesting challenge. You could certainly place more gear if you wanted to get creative. A ground-up, onsight attempt on gear would be an especially engaging experience for someone with the skills.
These are the good placements I've found, onsighters plug yer ears:
.75 horizontally placed in the jug below the 2nd bolt.
yellow c3 in a positive fingerlock out left
red c3 or equivalent in the next good constriction to the right.
very good purple c3 passively nested behind the pinch at the beginning of the crux.
good green c3 in/above the crux flaring lock/lieback/shoulderpress sequence.
full disclosure, this beta is BS and I havent sent. going to test these placements with my flying body.