|Higher Energy Crag
A very powerful route on the far right side of the cliff.
The crux is getting past the third bolt.
Greg was totally throttle out on the sport drink (Full Throttle) on the redpoint.
Four bolts and a gray Camalot or red Alien.
BETA PHOTO: Take one of these before starting up!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
A good climb for the short distance it covers. As well, I did it "belly to the bolts," but a different sequence than was done for the FA. I found it to be perhaps 5.11c and more gymnastic/powerful.
Gear: The bolt below the potential gear placement is only at your knees when you reach the next one, so no gear is needed. Why hold on to crux holds for so long when big jugs and a clip are coming? I placed one to see how it was, but not until I was at the last clip anyway. Felt like a little bit too much effort since the route is adequately bolted for a safe ascent.