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Ed and Terry Wall
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Y Crack, The 

Full Skuck 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 679
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 19, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: 5 Full Skuck 5.7
6 I'm Not Lichen This 5.6

Description 

A pleasant jaunt up a slabby, lichen-covered face with an angled roof thrown in to keep it interesting. The position is pleasant and somewhat exposed-feeling.

Start up the slabby section below the roof, slinging a horn off to the left if desired, or placing gear in the corner crack on the right of the face. The climbing is fairly mellow with plenty of positive edges. Put a cam or two in the crack under the roof, move up near the upper edge and put a smallish cam (e.g., #.5 BD C4) in the crack over the roof.

Pull over the roof, clip the first bolt, and then travel parallel to the arete on solid, positive edges to the chains.


Location 

This route climbs the left side of the slabby face that is to the immediate north of the main Ed and Terry Wall. Scramble up the angled ramp to the left of the main wall to the belay position.


Protection 

4 bolts, slings, a couple of small to medium cams, chain anchors.



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Aug 13, 2009

This is a fun route! Cool moves over the roof and nice positive edges after that. Worth doing.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 13, 2009

Well worth the effort. Fun committing moves through the bulge/roof to a cruiser upper face.