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BETA PHOTO: A close up of the climb and crack.
Scramble up off the road to the start of the route. Getting above the "keyhole" was a bit interesting maybe the crux. pretty sustained for the most part with a few rests thrown in to place gear. It's short but makes you work for it a little. You'll encounter some OW, fist crack, a few hand jambs, thin hands, maybe a few short lived sections of finger size.
The route is on the opposite side of I Chicken
, the crack goes through to the other side being analogous.
I used upto a #5 Camalot C4 and as small as a yellow Alien for cams. I used the red Alien in 2 spots. I'm pretty sure I used my #5, #4, 3.5, 2 red cams (1 TCU, 1 Alien #0.75 equivalent), 1 yellow TCU, and a green DMM offset micro.
Scott Anderson cleaning my gear.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor area. Nice block to sling.
By Jason Haas
Oct 5, 2009
This is worth doing since it's so close to the road. I also checked with the rangers when I did it last spring that this stays open during the normal raptor closure in the area. (So does Iron Angle Slab for that matter.)
By Jay Eggleston
Nov 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The crux on this seems like it is at the bottom where the crack is offwidth-sized. Your first piece is probably going to be the #5 Camalot. It is too bad this climb is so short. Just when you are starting to have fun it is over.