Full Moon  5.7

246 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Tom Seibert, Ellen Seibert, Frank Becker, Larry Day, 1973 Submitted By:  Chris Chaney on Oct 13, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Layback or OW the initial crack. Then face climb/layback the right leaning dihedral to a belay in the chimney.

Chimney or grovel (same thing right?) to the main summit on the right side or climb a crack in the left wall (5.8) and jump across the chimney when you're done.

I'm sure at one point in time this route was a definite classic. And while the physical substance of the climb has not changed, the route is usually coated in a layer of sand washed down from the ultra-eroded summit.

Location 

Full Moon in on the north side of the rock, facing NW in a big dihedral on the west side of the main buttress on that face.

Hike in to the arch. Drop down and hike left around the rock until you find the obvious wide dihedral. Alternately, scramble on top of Half Moon Rock from the arch and rappel the route from a good sized tree at the top of the chimney.

Protection 

A lot of big gear, take some medium cams for the middle section as well.

There is (still?) a good sized tree at the top of the climb.