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Layback or OW the initial crack. Then face climb/layback the right leaning dihedral to a belay in the chimney.
Chimney or grovel (same thing right?) to the main summit on the right side or climb a crack in the left wall (5.8) and jump across the chimney when you're done.
I'm sure at one point in time this route was a definite classic. And while the physical substance of the climb has not changed, the route is usually coated in a layer of sand washed down from the ultra-eroded summit.
Full Moon in on the north side of the rock, facing NW in a big dihedral on the west side of the main buttress on that face.
Hike in to the arch. Drop down and hike left around the rock until you find the obvious wide dihedral. Alternately, scramble on top of Half Moon Rock from the arch and rappel the route from a good sized tree at the top of the chimney.
A lot of big gear, take some medium cams for the middle section as well.
There is (still?) a good sized tree at the top of the climb.
By Doug Hemken
Jun 20, 2008
This route *was* a classic, back in the mid- & late- 1970s. By the mid-1980s it had mostly been forgotten, I think. Back in the 1970s it had a lot *less* moss growing on it! I think I was last out there about 4 years ago?
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jul 30, 2012
Still a hidden classic in my opinion! Fun climbing from top to bottom! The bottom foot holds are a bit dirty but all the rock is solid. Bring big gear, at least one #6 and #5.