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Full Moon Bar B Que 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Wolfe, R. Curtis (2007)
New Route: Yes
Season: not summer
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 15, 2009
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Description 

down descent gully, first gully you come to as you walk away from the radio tower. thoughtful descending gets you to a little staging area that is not fully to the ground and is below a nice, attractive, tall more or less vertical wall. [approaching from along the bottom of the cliff you will first pass the cave feature that has some old bolts/tat on one side, then you will walk past the bottom of the gully/trough] there are several routes here not yet described. Full Moon starts on a slabby portion of dark rock that has a crack/lie-back sort of feature.....go up 12 or so feet to a big spherical solution pocket/hole kind of thing.....like on the route Mississippi Moon at the Red......the bolts begin at the top edge of this feature. Boulder through on smallish, glassy-ish sometimes holds up to to slabbyness......and into a section of rock i will characterize as being eggshell like. This portion could prove worrisome, but take some time to piece it together, heave up to a stance under a roof, lean back, high kick around roof, and work up right trending face holds. Best value experience stays on this headwall where there is a perfect progression of edges on sugar white and gray quality sandstone. Worst value would be to flop over left into the 5.4 trough that will becon the weaker souls. To do so will cheat you of the fun this route can be (plus there are no bolts this way). Its a long route with great views and positions.....just gotta hold your nose through the eggshell

(named after the celebrated BBQ joint in Birmingham)


Location 

spot the big spherical solution hole, you'll see the fixed gear

Cool mixed route just left of this one....B-52....starts on moldy gray rock with small wires cracks beginning 8 feet up or so


Protection 

sport, but you may want a #1 BD or #2 anything else for the off the ground portion before the first bolt



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