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Full Monty 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Smith, Rich Strang
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 28, 2013

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Description 

Full Monty: P1 is about 5.9, 70ft, P2 is about 5.10-, 90ft). P1 is the Half Monty; nice stemming up a broken corner. P2 is the Full Monty, which features everything you might expect to see in a climb plus a few things you probably could have done without seeing. Wide crack to a corner to a roof to a wild, featured off width chimney.


Location 

Look for the first obvious tower on the upper portion of the cliff; about 200 feet down from the shoulder of Capulet/Capulin. P2 has an obvious and very difficult looking roof which turns out to be pretty straight forward.


Protection 

Small gear inside the chimney (0.1 TCUs) ease the gear load. Leader will want to tunnel inside near the top for a short Harding Slot Simulator. One each 0.1 to #2. #5 and #6 nice to have. Long slings to control drag. Maybe take extra 0.1-0.2 for the chimney.



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By Josh Smith
Oct 28, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Future ascents will be safer than the FA, but there is quite a bit of loose rock and mouse crap on the big ledge part way up P2. Be extra careful on this one.

By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Three star route for now but when it cleans up it could become a MUST DO route in New Mexico. I can't remember when I've ever been as scared climbing over loose car sized blocks (those are gone now) as I was when Josh and I first climbed this. Josh was "The Man " that day climbing over those things on the sharp end! Very cool & unique line though, give it a try with care.