|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade V|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Phil Gruber and Brett Nelson|
|Submitted By:||Brett Nelson on Mar 10, 2010|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Full House||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By J. Albers
Mar 10, 2010
I submitted a photo of what I think must be you and Phil together at the belay after pitch 3? Just before this shot was taken, I heard the *ping, ping* of the hand drill, followed by a few falls, and then "Yeahhhh!!!" from what I assume was one of you guys sending the crux traverse. Nice work. Sorry I don't have a better photo for you guys. (Photo was shot on July 23, 2009.) Did you guys send the whole route that day? Let me know if you want a copy of the picture and I will send it your way.
By Richard Rossiter
Jun 5, 2010
|BRETT, I am near the completion of a new guide to the High Peaks of RMNP. I would like to add your route, but I am currently unable to differentiate it from Gear and Clothing, Queen of Spades, et cetera. You can reach me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I can send you an attached topo of the aid climbs above the Green Pillar. Perhaps you could mark in your route, so that I can place it correctly in the text and draw the line accurately on a new topo. Best Regards, Richard Rossiter|
By joel douglas
From: Denver CO
Aug 19, 2010
|We attempted this route yesterday but bailed half way up pitch 5 due to continued poor rock quality. Our expectations for pitch 5 were high due to the description and we kept telling ourselves to keep pushing through the crumbly first few pitches to get to this amazing corner. The pitch 5, amazing, 180' corner rained down pebbles and the rock made discouraging hollow noises when cams were placed. After about 65', there was a section with no good pro and we were not willing to continue up more loose rock, so we down climbed and rapped to Broadway. On the positive side, the route had an adventurous feel, and it was great to be free climbing on the right side of The Diamond.|
By Scott Bennett
Aug 27, 2010
I was climbing with Joel when we bailed off Full House last week, and I first want to give a huge thanks to the FA team for putting up this line. It definitely took some vision and hard work to put it all together, and I regret that we didn't finish it.
That said, I do agree with Joel that the rock quality on the first 5 pitches wasn't stellar. I don't really think it's dangerous, but there were quite a few pieces that I didn't want to trust. Joel took a fall on P4 that ripped a cam and a fixed piton. Luckily the belay was 2 nice shiny bolts, because that's what caught him. Thanks for the bolts!
Anyways, if you're looking for a classic on par with D7 or Yellow Wall, this might not be for you. If you're looking for a steep and wild adventure, get after it!
By Marc Gay
Aug 2, 2011
Now that Diamond season is upon us, I decided I'd make a comment on this route. I'm going to have to use my laser sharp memory, since I was on it last year. I thought this was a really good route up the right side of the Diamond. Starting with pitch 3:
P3: Mike stayed on the ramp and went higher than the obvious traverse, but was able to traverse back left at a flake (no gear) probably a slightly less pumpy way to get into the crack. Once at the bolts, hard moves getting to the sloping ledge, a little grainy, but not too bad.
P4: Hard move right off the belay (pin was there when we did it). Also takes a cam. Good rock to the old Belay, then left into the wideness (sugary). Once at the bolt, try and figure out the right way to traverse the face. There's a little more climbing on this pitch than there's supposed to be.
P5: Awesome pitch! Jam, lieback, and stem up the corner until you can dive into one of the offwidth sections and try and catch your breath. Then rinse and repeat. The rock on this pitch isn't perfect, but it didn't really seem to matter as you're usually jamming and stemming.
P6: Jam up to Table roof and pull a really hard move, followed by slightly easier moves switching cracks to the left. What a perched place to be liebacking with your hand way down by your ankles trying to get the next lock. This is where it started getting wet on us.
P7: Follow the cracks. I think we did it in one pitch from here to the end of the difficulties. I got to watch one of those truly inspirational leads in the mountains. I'd always heard Mike (Pennings) could climb with the sloppiest shoes available, now I'm a believer. Both feet went airborne 3 times... but he did not let go!
I highly recommend this route.
By j wharton
Aug 20, 2011
|Bryan Gilmore and I climbed most of this route yesterday. We bailed at Table roof, because things were completely drenched from there up. Despite Joel and Scott's comments, I would echo Marc's feeling that this is an excellent route. Sure there's some flakiness around, but generally the rock is as good, or better, than what is normally found on the right side of the Diamond. I managed to link pitches 3 and 4 to avoid the new bolted belay. This seemed pretty reasonable, although you need plenty of long runners, and it makes the traverse to the base of the "amazing corner" a bit tougher due to rope drag. On pitch 5, if you bring some big wires you can par down the recommended rack (save the #3 and #4 for late in the pitch). It might also be worth stretching the rope past the bolt and wire belay to a small ledge 30' above. The difficulty of the climbing seemed similiar to the King of Swords, but the climbing was better!|