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Full House 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Phil Gruber and Brett Nelson
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,029
Submitted By: Brett Nelson on Mar 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Top of pitch 5.

Description 

Belay at 2 pitons, an old button head bolt and a slung flake at the top of the North Chimney.

Pitch 1: Climb the first 30 feet of the Queen of spades in an easy gully. After about 30 feet, traverse right 20 feet on a ramp. Place some gear in the crack (reachy) and climb the vertical crack for 25 feet to a sloping ramp belay (5.9+, 80 feet).

Pitch 2: Head up the fun hand crack for 180 feet, passing an old bolt belay at 90 feet, climb through the 2 foot wide gash on the left side of the green pillar and end on the most comfortable bivy ledge on the Diamond (5.10-, 180 feet).

Pitch 3: Climb from left to right up a ramp for 20 feet, and than step back left into a steep right facing finger and hand crack for about 50 feet. This is the left and cleaner of two parallel crack systems. When the crack ends at an old bolt, climb a few feet to the right passing 2 new bolts via steep face climbing and liebacking. Mantle up to a sloping ledge and a new 2 bolt belay (5.12, 100 feet).

Pitch 4: Lieback and stem the corner to the left of the belay past a piton and through a small roof. At the stance 20 feet above the roof, clip the abandoned belay and traverse left into a wide crack with some sugary rock. Climb up the wide crack for about 20 feet until you are level with a new bolt at climber’s right. Clip the bolt and traverse right into the large left facing corner system clipping a second old button head on the way. Belay on a decent pedestal with 3 fixed pins (5.11 60 feet).

Pitch 5: Climb the amazing overhanging left facing corner system for 180 feet via thin hand jambs, liebacking, and offwidth. Belay at a hanging belay with a old bolt and fixed nut (5.11+, 180 feet).

Pitch 6: Climb up the wide crack for about 25 feet until it becomes possible to climb the crack system a few feet to the left. Climb the hands crack up to table ledge (which is a series of roofs on this part of the diamond). Climb though the Table Ledge roof via liebacking and insecure finger locks. After getting established above the roof, climb up another 10 feet and over to the next crack system to the left. Belay at a small stance on a flake (5.11+, 120 feet).

Pitch 7. Climb up the crack system to an old bolt and pin belay (5.11, 100 feet).

Pitch 8. Climb straight up from the belay through overlaps to a right-facing corner and up to the top of the Diamond. (5.11- 100 feet) The last three pitches are a half grade harder when wet, as was the case for our ascent.

Location 

Full House is a new free line established in 2009 on the right side of the Diamond with great climbing, good rock, and good protection. The climb frees pitch 1 and 2 of Gear and Clothing, pitch 3 and 4 of La Dolce Vita, and then returns to Gear and Clothing for pitches 5 through 8. The climbing is steep and varied from face climbing to thin hands to offwidth. The best approach is the North Chimney.

Descent: rappel the cables route on the north side of Long's, then rappel the Chasm View rappels to Broadway, then walk south on Broadway to the lower east face rappels.

Protection 

Recommended rack: Single set of nuts and tcus, double set of Camalots up to #3 with triples in #0.75 and #1 Camalots, single #4 and single #5 Camalot.


Photos of Full House Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on Full House?  July 23, 2009.
Climbers on Full House? July 23, 2009.
Pitch 5.
Pitch 5.
Full House, photo by Aaron Voreis.
Full House, photo by Aaron Voreis.
Pitch 4 wide crack before the traverse.
Pitch 4 wide crack before the traverse.
Another shot of the excellent, long crack on P5.
Another shot of the excellent, long crack on P5.

Comments on Full House Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 10, 2010

Hi Brett,

I submitted a photo of what I think must be you and Phil together at the belay after pitch 3? Just before this shot was taken, I heard the *ping, ping* of the hand drill, followed by a few falls, and then "Yeahhhh!!!" from what I assume was one of you guys sending the crux traverse. Nice work. Sorry I don't have a better photo for you guys. (Photo was shot on July 23, 2009.) Did you guys send the whole route that day? Let me know if you want a copy of the picture and I will send it your way.

Cheers.
By Richard Rossiter
Jun 5, 2010

BRETT, I am near the completion of a new guide to the High Peaks of RMNP. I would like to add your route, but I am currently unable to differentiate it from Gear and Clothing, Queen of Spades, et cetera. You can reach me at rrossiter1@msn.com. I can send you an attached topo of the aid climbs above the Green Pillar. Perhaps you could mark in your route, so that I can place it correctly in the text and draw the line accurately on a new topo. Best Regards, Richard Rossiter
By joel douglas
From: Denver CO
Aug 19, 2010

We attempted this route yesterday but bailed half way up pitch 5 due to continued poor rock quality. Our expectations for pitch 5 were high due to the description and we kept telling ourselves to keep pushing through the crumbly first few pitches to get to this amazing corner. The pitch 5, amazing, 180' corner rained down pebbles and the rock made discouraging hollow noises when cams were placed. After about 65', there was a section with no good pro and we were not willing to continue up more loose rock, so we down climbed and rapped to Broadway. On the positive side, the route had an adventurous feel, and it was great to be free climbing on the right side of The Diamond.
By Scott Bennett
Aug 27, 2010

I was climbing with Joel when we bailed off Full House last week, and I first want to give a huge thanks to the FA team for putting up this line. It definitely took some vision and hard work to put it all together, and I regret that we didn't finish it.

That said, I do agree with Joel that the rock quality on the first 5 pitches wasn't stellar. I don't really think it's dangerous, but there were quite a few pieces that I didn't want to trust. Joel took a fall on P4 that ripped a cam and a fixed piton. Luckily the belay was 2 nice shiny bolts, because that's what caught him. Thanks for the bolts!

Anyways, if you're looking for a classic on par with D7 or Yellow Wall, this might not be for you. If you're looking for a steep and wild adventure, get after it!

-Scott
By Marc Gay
Aug 2, 2011

Now that Diamond season is upon us, I decided I'd make a comment on this route. I'm going to have to use my laser sharp memory, since I was on it last year. I thought this was a really good route up the right side of the Diamond. Starting with pitch 3:

P3: Mike stayed on the ramp and went higher than the obvious traverse, but was able to traverse back left at a flake (no gear) probably a slightly less pumpy way to get into the crack. Once at the bolts, hard moves getting to the sloping ledge, a little grainy, but not too bad.

P4: Hard move right off the belay (pin was there when we did it). Also takes a cam. Good rock to the old Belay, then left into the wideness (sugary). Once at the bolt, try and figure out the right way to traverse the face. There's a little more climbing on this pitch than there's supposed to be.

P5: Awesome pitch! Jam, lieback, and stem up the corner until you can dive into one of the offwidth sections and try and catch your breath. Then rinse and repeat. The rock on this pitch isn't perfect, but it didn't really seem to matter as you're usually jamming and stemming.

P6: Jam up to Table roof and pull a really hard move, followed by slightly easier moves switching cracks to the left. What a perched place to be liebacking with your hand way down by your ankles trying to get the next lock. This is where it started getting wet on us.

P7: Follow the cracks. I think we did it in one pitch from here to the end of the difficulties. I got to watch one of those truly inspirational leads in the mountains. I'd always heard Mike (Pennings) could climb with the sloppiest shoes available, now I'm a believer. Both feet went airborne 3 times... but he did not let go!

I highly recommend this route.
By j wharton
Aug 20, 2011

Bryan Gilmore and I climbed most of this route yesterday. We bailed at Table roof, because things were completely drenched from there up. Despite Joel and Scott's comments, I would echo Marc's feeling that this is an excellent route. Sure there's some flakiness around, but generally the rock is as good, or better, than what is normally found on the right side of the Diamond. I managed to link pitches 3 and 4 to avoid the new bolted belay. This seemed pretty reasonable, although you need plenty of long runners, and it makes the traverse to the base of the "amazing corner" a bit tougher due to rope drag. On pitch 5, if you bring some big wires you can par down the recommended rack (save the #3 and #4 for late in the pitch). It might also be worth stretching the rope past the bolt and wire belay to a small ledge 30' above. The difficulty of the climbing seemed similiar to the King of Swords, but the climbing was better!