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Full Execution 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: John Freaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: sweatpants on Jun 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

start far left on jug. traverse through hangman and continue along using the 3 underclings and left hand slopers round the corner and up. should be a really hard linkup.


Location 

backbone, execution bloc

Protection 

pads


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execution bloc
BETA PHOTO: execution bloc
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 30, 2008
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 25, 2008

I spent an hour cleaning this thing off about 2 months ago, and then just gave up. It seemed like the crux slopers that would need to be in perfect condition were just out of the brushes reach.... Did you guys make much progress on it? It seemed feasable to me , just needed lots of TLC.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 26, 2008

It is pretty hard for sure. definately seemed like the hardest thing ive been on there. I linked it through hangman then to the next undercling but was falling trying to move my left hand to another sloper. mind you it was pretty late in the day and 78 degrees. lol. not perfect conditions. I think it'll go though for sure. work it in the summer and it'll be easy in colder weather... well maybe not easy but better. lots of different variations to be had on the bloc though. we did lots of cleaning for sure.
By Dobbe
Jul 3, 2008

Is the full execution, hangman to the last move then move over to the last move in guillotine and end the same way up over the sloper?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 4, 2008

i think you're saying what im thinking. essentially it goes from hangman and then instead of going straight up from the sloper you continue on underclings and the next set of slopers into pretty much is the start of Guillotine and then up. if that makes sense?
By Dobbe
Jul 4, 2008

today I went and cleaned the hell out of the problem. It is a little dirty put we still climbed it again. I was able to move from the last move on hangman and stick the lip instead of going down to the under clings. But it was getting late and could not stick my next foot.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 5, 2008

Yeah, Dobbe spent about 20 minutes cleaning off the top-out. Makes it much nicer. Project is hard, but should go with some more work.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 6, 2008

So psyched/ So frusterated... I felt sooooooo close. 3 ripped fingers and still no send. I got to third undercling and was bringing left over, on my high point. Lots of progress and did all the moves. there where a couple folks not using the underclings and where putting there right hand to the second sloper but then seemed kind of stuck. Really excited about the problem though. total class. Remo, Dobbe I heard u ran into a couple of my buddies Friday. Thank you for putting the additional cleaning in on the problem! Much appreciated. Deffinately looked and felt better. I have some pictures that I'll post later.
By Dobbe
Jul 7, 2008

No problem glad to help the hangman is a four star problem and the link will be too.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 8, 2008

Hey Fellars,

I remember cleaning this thing several years back. I love slopers when bouldering! Never got around to working on it in a real way though. It is nice to see this line, and the whole park come into fruition! Good to see you are all pulling down as well despite the nasty year of weather and the bugs (I get regular reports from my folks). Still a lot of rock I passed up to be had. JJ
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 14, 2008

any progress gentleman?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 2, 2008

It was over and I missed my left hand on the good part of the sloper. Couldn't find the juice or skin to link it again. 1st go next session for sure!
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 16, 2008

Nice job cleaning this up guys its pristine. Also it has been sent. I would totally give this 4 stars but the final move is just shit. Imagine doing the worm up that final sloper ledge....
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 16, 2008

Nice work Trav. Guess you figured out the good beta. Can't wait to send it myself.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 17, 2008

Yo good job man! were u there yesterday? if so i think we saw your car there with all the climbing stickers when we left? turquise car no? u must have just missed us. we were all working it and Justin sent. I was wondering which version you did because theres 2 variations that are totally different. The version Justin did is he called 'Highly Executed' and its essentially just staying up top all the way across and then around the corner where 'full' goes in between both the 3 underclings and the top and around the corner. curious how u did it. also, v6? or did u just press the wrong button?
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2008

Yea i guess im not sure what official line I did... I was there friday afternoon (2days ago). The line i did started way on the left then traversed across the slopers , into the arete and toped out direct. But yea, V6 seemed accurate. It was my first time on the thing (when it was clean enough to climb), and it went quickly. I felt it was way easier than sandstone violence, which I am nowhere near close to sending...
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 17, 2008

It sounds like you did 'highly executed'. from the slopers on hangman to the second larger sloper ledge out right thats a bit worse then up to the slopy corner at the top of guilotine... sounds like what u described. a point though about S.V. is its a very different kind of climb from this and this may perhaps suite you better. Just tossing that out there. anyways congrats on the send my friend! word
sweaty
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2008

Well that is possible that it fit my style...but im in poor shape (climbed maybe 10 times since april) and ive never been a V8 boulderer, so I couldnt justify giving it that high a rating.... So Im curious, what is your proj. then? Is it the same route, just using the underclings?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 17, 2008

Yeah 'full' goes across using the 3 underclings and the top sloper features and then turns the corner. It is really good and totally different than the high version in movement and difficulty. the reason the top was given such a rating was that several climbers of the stronger variety have given it some good work and it has given them loads of trouble. I wasn't the one to give the grade to be honest so i suppose im a bad person to argue the point. perhaps dobbe, remo and chris would want to chime in cause i think they've been working the top. the grade was given by Justin and I'm sure he would welcome others thoughts on the matter. perhaps even somewhere in the middle of the two views for a v7 would be fair. I dont know. hopefully others will speak up about it. To be honest I havent given any work to to top version because ive been focusing on my original 'vision' or version i suppose. haha. i was going to give the top goes after i finished 'full'.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2008

Ahh i get it now. Cool. I guess i just went for the natural line... Some of the madison crew and I are heading out on thursday, got off?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 17, 2008

unfortunately i do not... bummer. good luck out there! wierdly enough my line was the one that made the most sense at first because until all the feet were more recently found and played with staying on top didnt really seem feasable to the people that were trying it. Now it seems to be pretty much unlocked. what are yall psyched on for thurs?
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 18, 2008

Ha yea , the whole thing didnt really seem feasable until that big sloper ledge got some mega cleaning. Now its tottally sweet. Not sure what the plan is for thurs...work SV again perhaps
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 29, 2008

You'll notice I finally got to delete the 'project' part in the title here. Long overdue to say the least. to many days and prolly a billion tries. What a great day.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 26, 2008

its really fun but i gave it 2 stars cause it's contrived. werrdd
By Tradoholic
Nov 26, 2008

Sweaty, your contrived variations are negative star rated! (Oh wait, DAMN, I haven't sent yet, I take that back) And for god sakes have some self dignity and capitalize, it separates us from the animals.
Love,
Rhoads
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 26, 2008

haven't sent? or haven't tried it? there's a difference sir. also Im' not sure what u want me to capitalize. oHH lIke WorDs wHEn I"M typIng thingS? you take this interent thing very seriously it would seem. Also it you'll notice that most feel you can give stars to things you've tried and not sent cause it is an opinion on how good you think the climb is. They have a place where you can record it as a 'tick' if you do it... totally different sweetie pie.

with love and holiday kisses,
sweaty
By Tradoholic
Nov 26, 2008

I'll never try this out of principal, it's not a route. And I will never star rate something unless I've sent. If we slide the other way with this rule the star rating will be worthless. That's just how I feel. This isn't Nam there are rules.
If I do Flavor Savor with a weighted backpack can I name it a new route? Full Execution is just Highly Executed with bad beta.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2008

Deep breath, gentlemen. It's only rock climbing, which really is pretty pointless. Come out to the Dodge Saturday-- should a be a few folks out there. I will be able to be found flailing on Highly Executed and Battle of the Bulge. Happy Thanksgiving!
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 28, 2008

Here's a more tame and abridged version of what I wrote and deleted...

In the last week or so that you have decided to post, all you have done is agitate people and make waves for no particular reason. This is a regular group of climbers that have had some great additions for the site, put in a lot of work for the climbing community to enjoy and had some great conversation for at least as long as I've been on here (i.e. springtime). I don't think you have been a positive presence or addition to M.P. which is unfortunate.

John
By Tradoholic
Nov 30, 2008

Sounds like you take this internet thing too seriously John. I'm not pissed off at all, been laughing this whole time! C'mon, you can take a little shit can't you?!?!?
I'm giving you my opinion, which is what this thing is for anyway, right?
To reiterate my points:
-I think someone should not post their opinion of a route (e.g. Flavor Savor) until they have sent. My reasons are expressed elseware. Jay says that's cool and he's Admin, so we can leave it at that. Personally, I will not be star rating until I've sent.
-I consider MP an online guidebook representative of our local area's climbing and climbers and if we clutter MP with contrived variations we are watering down what we've got and we end up appearing contrived ourselves. It's a slippery slope......

John, thank you for capitalizing in your last post.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 30, 2008

All right dude whatever you say.

and

you're Welcome :-)