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Full Dunn-Westbay 

YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,565
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Aug 29, 2013

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The Full Dunn-Westbay frees the original Dunn-Westbay aid line. Josh Wharton had freed about the route in 2011 at 13-, avoiding the 5.14 and 5.13- crux sections of the aid line by traversing over into Gear and Clothing. The original aid line follows one perfect crack line to the summit, and the Full Dunn-Westbay free climbs this system ledge-to-ledge in 4, 80m (80m rope required!!!) rope-stretching pitches. It is the most continuous splitter route on the Diamond. No bolts were added for protection on any of the pitches. The immaculate rock, ample protection, sustained climbing, and spectacular position makes it truly one of the best multi-pitch climbs in Colorado. It is hard to believe things like this exist in the alpine.

Note: It is possible to split the crux pitch into 2 pitches by belaying (hanging) at the end of the 5.12 section on the crux pitch, it is unclear whether this changes the grade. Doing it as one mega-pitch certainly adds a mental crux. The proper route should be done ledge-to-ledge as Tommy Caldwell envisioned.


Begin by climbing up the right side of the Green Pillar. Follow the splitter to the summit


80m rope! 6 slings, 18 quickdraws. Single set #0.75-#3 Camalot, doubles in tips to fingers, singles in micro, 1 set of stoppers.

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