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Eric on P-2
Full Circle is a fairly serious outing due to the old school nature of the route, but is great for climbers looking for this type of climb. The rock can be spotty in places and is considered more straight forward than some of the other routes on the Entrance Dome which can be complicated and hard to follow.
P1: 4-5 Bolts lead up 5.5 Terrain to marginal pro or an easy run-out and a two bolt anchor on a large ledge. The Climbing gets easier as you go (140').
P2: Marginal pro off the belay on similar terrain leads to marginal pro below a line of bolts and the beginning of 5.8 technical climbing. The bolts lead to a two bolts anchor (90').
P3: Bolts and some supplemental protection lead up an obvious left facing/ left leaning corner for 30-40'. A bolt at the end of the feature leads you onto the face. Route finding skills are necessary here to take you up the face to another two bolt belay. Protection is available throughout- in the form of wires and slung features (140' 5.10b/c).
P4: Off the belay two bolts lead you into the crack. Great protection is available here at a strenuous section of climbing. The crack ends at a good hold and stance and allows a chance to place more protection for the right leaning finger crack. At the end of the finger section you may have a chance to step onto the arete or you may decided to step right into the continuing right leaning crack. If you step right into the crack you will find options for protection and a weakness which allows you to make thrilling moves onto the face. There is an option for protection here at a committing move. From here face climbing leads to a nice stance and more protection. At this point you may see the lone bolt on the arete above. Careful climbing leads you up the rest of the pinnacle. You may need a 70 meter rope and/or long runners throughout the pitch to make it to the tree at the top of the pinnacle. This pitch is 5.10c, committing and dicey in some places, however- the position and sustained climbing make this a great climb.
On the East end of the Entrance Dome, Full Circle can be found between The Year of Living Dangerously and The Big Sleep. These routes are on a semi-detached pinnacle which stretches down to the tree line. Full Circle is located where this feature reaches its lowest point. It is well cairned to its base which lies in a heavily vegetated area with a left leaning feature directing you towards the first bolt.
To get down off this pinnacle it may be possible to scramble West into the gully. It is also possible to rappel from the tree into the gully with one 60 meter rope. Beware of loose rocks here while on rappel and while pulling your rope. The mouth of the gully will become exposed and it is possible to rappel from tat with one 60 meter rope to the top of the third pitch anchor. From here you can rappel to the top of the second pitch with two ropes. Then rappel to the top of the first pitch. From here a two rope rappel will bring you back to the base of the climb.
A single rack of cams up to a #3 camalot, good selection of stoppers and slings for long runners and horns would probably do the trick. There are some tri-cam placements and it may be useful to have doubles of smaller sized cams.
There are enough bolts to keep you going in the right direction but some route finding is still necessary. There are bolted belays at the top of the first 3 pitches and a large tree at the top of the pinnacle.
BETA PHOTO: This picture shows the entire route, notice the bo...
BETA PHOTO: Rough topo marks for Full Circle- Photo Bob Kerry'...
Good view of the final, spectacular arête of Full...
By Matt I
From: Memphis, Tn
Mar 22, 2011
There's a great slopey 5.6 on the right ridge line that has one or two 5.8 moves but is mostly friction climbing. Worth an hour of your time. Follow the obvious line to a tree with an old static line anchor. Rap into the drainage.
By brian benedon
Apr 7, 2013
Full Circle does have some run-outs; mostly on easier terrain, there is some route finding and some tricky placements, and a death bloc on pitch 2, but the route is mostly great rock with great pro. The bolts look as new as they did in 95. We did not use the #3 or any tricams.
We did it in 4 pitches. The last pitch; up the aerate was 215' although you could unclip and walk up. It is better to belay about 20' past the crux; you can step down into the gully and belay off of a tree in the shade.
Years ago we climbed Falconlore and Full Circle in a day.
To get off. walk north along the top and down slightly to a tree. Same as for Big Sleep, One Double rope rap gets you down. If you happen to have only one rope; min 60m, there is a mid point rap, but it is not very good. It is smarter to bring 2 ropes. We did add webbing to both raps.
The approach to Entrance Dome is much farther right than you think at first, about half way up it traverses back left and up the gully at the end, right to the start of the route.