|Seven Eleven Wall
The big daddy of Kaymoor. Unrepeated for years after the first ascent, this route now becoming a fairly popular testpiece.
Up the reachy slab, cop a rest and launch into the violent crux bit.
At the extreme end of Kaymoor walking past First Steps and it is the solitary bolt line on the intimidating overhanging wall.
Fixed draws most of the time...don't take them if they're not yours.
Birdie on the lower slab of "Fuel Injector".
Sep 21, 2011
Great rock and interesting bouldery moves make this a must do route. After dynoing to the hand-sized pocket at 2/3 height there are two options, move straight above the pocket through a couple long moves or stay slightly left and battle through tiny crimps and side pulls. Both ways are about equal in difficulty and your preferred sequence will likely depend on your style and height.
|By Blake Cash|
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
I would up doing the "shadow" move at the hole. Pretty great route. The move to the hole, while big, didn't seem to be the crux in my opinion...it's the moves after that are the hardest. The intro slab is kinda hard, 5.12...on perfect rock. The moves from the rest to the chains climb like a long V7 or so. One of my personal favorites at the New.